Tuesday, July 22, 2014

I'll ride that dream to the end of the line

I'm gonna take you, New York, I'll make it happen
I'm on the caboose, I'm drinking Manhattans
And I know someday they're going to name a street after me
Right next door to old Franklin D.

The Managing Partner and I just returned from a weekend in New York City. What a town! This was a complete tourist visit; a full-on fanny pack, Bermuda shorts, Griswold affair. We visited the 9/11 Memorial, which was, as you no doubt know, an extraordinary experience.

9/11 Memorial
And of course saw the so-called Freedom Tower. It is an extraordinary odalisque, but remember that no matter how large, proud and rigid One World Trade Center is, the nation's capital still boasts the original national phallus. And don't you forget it!

Freedom Tower
I'm really looking forward to seeing how the Transportation Hub turns out. It is still in its early phases of construction, suggesting some sort of skeleton made out of recycled naval ships or airplane wings. Maybe the location put the image in my mind, but the form kind of reminded me of jet turbines. However it turns out, it is sure to be unique.

The World Trade Center Transportation Hub

We also took in the High Line park which I have wanted to visit for some years but just never had the opportunity. I must say it lived up to expectations, though I was surprised at how crowded it was. It was a lovely day, but by the time we reached the north terminus, it felt like we were marching single file in some sort of abattoir chute. Where's Temple Grandin when you need her? Nevertheless, it was a lovely day, the park is indeed visionary and a joy to experience, and we had a lovely drink at the GastroMarket afterward.

<The Bummer Report>
The one sad note of the entire weekend was the absolute, unforgivable failure of the Citi Bike system. We purchased two 24-hour passes and eagerly anticipated the ride from the end of the High Line to our pied-à-terre in the upper 50's. I had downloaded the app, mapped out the route and was anxious to be initiated into the troubled system that has somehow out shined DC's earlier, more successful bike sharing system. But, after attempting to release over a dozen bikes at three stations that the app indicated had available bikes, and a call to support, The Managing Partner vetoed the adventure and we hailed a cab. I know mine is probably not a statistically representative example, but this first foray made a very poor first impression. Several similar attempts have led to very positive experiences with Capital Bike Share. I don't know what's wrong with Citi Bike. As usual, the tawdry, erratic New York slut gets all the attention while the dowdy, dependable DC dame gets treated like a redheaded stepchild.
</The Bummer Report>

The real revelation of the trip was Roosevelt Island. We were staying at a friend's apartment up in the East 50's and looking around for an interesting place to stroll, we found ourselves taking the Roosevelt Island Tramway over and spending a morning wandering the island. 

NYC via gondola
The entire island from the tramway south is made up of an old ruined hospital and two absolutely wonderful parks - Southpoint Park, and The FDR Four Freedoms park. Southpoint Park is filled with incredible flora, offering unparalleled views of the iconic East Side. It's organic forms contrast gorgeously with the relentlessly linear angles of the city's skyline.

Southpoint Park is an oasis of bloom with stunning views of the city
AND they have a ruined Gothic Smallpox hospital in the park! Now that's upscale tourism. You can't actually go into the hospital, but it looks all spooky and evocative just seeing it from outside the perimeter fence. I'll bet it looks spectacular when they light it up at night. Alas, time was limited and we were not able to enjoy that pleasure. It'll have to wait for another trip, I guess.

Welcome to the Roosevelt Island Smallpox hospital
Given the recent revelations at NIH, perhaps we ought to think about restoring this hospital 
The FDR Four Freedoms park was every bit the surprise Southpoint had been. Laid out in rigid geometric symmetry, juxtaposed nicely against Southpoint's meandering, naturalistic forms, the Four Freedom park focuses attention on a mammoth bust of FDR, the reverse of which contains the words for which the park is named. It is a moving tribute to the man and a reminder of the shame we should feel every single day for having failed to live up to the noble aspirations he established.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt on his island
FDR's Four Freedoms
We were there on a Sunday morning. It seemed like we had the whole place to ourselves. By noon the island was crawling with Japanese tourists. Take that for what it's worth (nothing).

And I've only described the southern third of Roosevelt Island. The northern section contains some extraordinary architecture, more parks, public art, and a lighthouse. There's even a little downtown with a few eateries that look worthy of exploration. We were rushed for time and didn't get the chance to fully delve into all there is on offer, but we will very likely be back to have another look.

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