Wednesday, March 21, 2018

From Frame to Frameset

Previously on MondoBlahBlah... or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

The frame has been bought, the boxes opened, the parts examined. At this point there's nothing to do but put it all together and see if it's a bike. This is likely to take me a while, as I've never done it before and I don't have all the appropriate tools. I want to do as much of it as I can myself, but I'm not too proud to ask for help from my friendly neighborhood bike shop. The next few posts will cover the ins and outs of my efforts to assemble my brand new bike.

Frame Protector
First things first. The Velo Routier is a steel frame and as we all know, steel rusts. So before I started hanging components on the frame, I gave it a good spray with some Progold Steel Frame Protector. Progold is one of the two widely available aerosol products that make it easy to apply a protective layer inside a steel bicycle frame, the other being J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver. Eco-minded artisans may want to use boiled linseed oil to achieve the same effect. More power to you.
Progold straw injection site

A word of warning about the Progold. As noted in the comments on Amazon.com, the little straw that fits into the spray nozzle doesn't fit very well, and sure enough, on my first good spray into the hole in the fork crown, it went flying into the fork, never to be seen again. I spent a little time at a futile attempt to get the straw to come back out the hole I shot it into, but that activity is akin to psychological torture, so I gave up pretty quickly. I just grabbed a straw from the nearest can of WD-40 and was back to the races. Hopefully only you and I, dear reader, will ever know that there is a little plastic straw in the right fork leg of my Velo Routier.

Speaking of frame protection, I plan to put one of those clear plastic stickers on the chainstay to protect the paint from inadvertent chain slap, but that can wait until later in the build. Depending on where the cables end up, I'll probably also add some Jagwire cable protectors, but again, that can wait.

Headset
Okay, as a newbie, the installation of the headset was the part of the build causing me the most anxiety. I only had to watch one or two videos like this (https://youtu.be/lUy_tpAi0Xk) to convince me that this is the procedure best handled by a professional. Yes there are plenty of videos out there showing you that you can do it using nothing more than a hammer, some pvc tubing, a threaded rod and a couple of bolts, but still. The idea of bashing the fork crown race on my brand spanking new bike with a hammer gave me pause. So I begin my build report with the confession that I took my newly unboxed frame and fork over to Big Mig at the local Bicycle Place and had him install the headset for me. Within minutes he had transformed my frame and fork into a "frameset".

Bottom bracket
There are many people on the interweb who insist that before a bottom bracket can be installed on a new-from-the-factory frame, the bottom bracket shell must be "faced" and "chased" which basically means scraping any excess paint from the "face" of the shell and reaming the threads so everything is nice and smooth and even. I asked my pal Angus at Cycles Toussaint if this was necessary and he said they hadn't been doing it with the bikes they have been assembling. He did, however advise me to clean the BB threads well "like a baby's bottom." While I was at the Bicycle Place I asked Big Mig for a second opinion and he concurred, further clarifying that with cartridge bottom brackets such as the one shipped with the Velo Routier DIY kit, there's no need. Other types of bottom brackets are apparently touchier.

Shiny silver stuff - The Velo Routier's Crankset
Anyway, since I was asking him about it, Big Mig just went ahead and slapped the cartridge in while we chatted about it. A slathering of grease, a twist of the wrench and before I knew it, he was done. So, now the forks are attached to the frame and the crankset is installed. And what a pretty crankset it is. Honestly, though  Rene Herse cranks are obviously a bit lovelier with their loopy spiders, and Velo Orange cranksets have fluted arms and their cool etched logo (and don't even get me started waxing poetic about the Drillium!!!), the Velo Routier's smooth, spare shape is just the kind of shiny silver stuff you want on a bike like this. The form truly follows the function and the simplicity of the shapes with their mirror finish just really appeals to me. Sure, I'm also a fan of the old Shimano 600 Arabesque shifters and fancy lugs, but on a TIG welded frame, simple is better.

Next up ... the Cockpit!!!

Monday, March 12, 2018

You never get a second chance to make...

A first impression


Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

The new Velo Routier has finally arrived from Calgary. I've inspected the frame and weighed all the parts and everything made it in one piece. It is a lovely frame/fork and I'm sure it will build out to be a fine looking bike. So now it's time to roll up my sleeves and start the assembly process. First, let's lay out the parts on the bench and think about how they're going to work.

My first impression is that the components have been selected with the usual balance between quality and economy. The kit comes with a Neco roller bearing headset, which is recommended for low trail bikes to reduce the chance of shimmy; the bottom bracket seems to spin smoothly and the wheels are highly polished, easy spinning and seem strong. I am pleased to find that they chose 65mm crank arms for the 51cm frame - a sensible choice to adjust proportion for the smaller rider. Trek did not scale the crank arms to either of the bikes I've bought from them - I got the same crank length as a six foot rider would get. So, score one for Cycles Toussaint!

The Cockpit

The handlebars seem to be 42cm hung on a 100mm stem. They have what I would consider a gigantic drop, looking to be around 150mm. I might have preferred a slightly shorter stem, and a bit less drop, but I'll ride what they sent me before I decide I have to swap. These "fit" things are very personal so they were very much to be expected. And who knows? Maybe I'll learn something by trying Cycle Toussaint's choices.

Shifters
Thumb shifters on a Road bike?
Bar ends?
A picture is worth a thousand words, and in my experience usually carries more weight in the brain than text. So, while the description on the website clearly read, "microSHIFT 10 Speed Thumbshifter SL-T10 (quantity 2)", the photo of the DIY build shows what looks like bar-end shifters (photo left). I think I got it in my mind that they were selling "thumbies" along with bar-end pods so they could be converted. What I got (photo right) seem to be straight up dedicated bar-top thumb shifters that won't fit into the fittings for downtube or bar-end shifter bosses. I have sent an email to my new buddy Angus asking if the levers can be made to work with bar-end pods. He promised to look into the issue, and ultimately offered to send me some replacement shifters and throw in "a couple of chain quick links as well for good measure." Try getting that kind of response from Specialized! At the time of this writing I'm not quite sure what they'll send, so you'll have to wait for the Dummy's Guide to Screwing Up Bicycle Assembly episode to find out.

Fenders

Front fender L-bracket
One of the improvements to Version 2 of the Velo Routier frame is a better attachment for front fenders. As the site explains, "the front fork crown will now have an underside 5mm threaded fitting to allow fenders to be attached to the crown directly." But with the DIY build kit, the front fender is set up with a riveted L-bracket for mounting the fender to the back of the fork using the brake bolt.

As brake bolt mounting solutions go, the riveted tab is probably more secure and rattle free than the admittedly more flexible crimp-on fender bracket provided by Velo Orange, but it's obviously less than optimum, as evidenced by the fact that the company went to the trouble to re-design the fork for direct mounting to the underside of the crown. Not a deal-breaker, but inquiring minds want to know...

Fender hole inches from the bridge
There is a hole drilled in the rear fender, presumably where it is supposed to mount to the seatstay bridge. But the location isn't even close. I'm going to have to drill a hole in the right location to make it work. Not a big deal, and I wouldn't have been surprised to have to do that anyway But having a hole in the wrong location is a bit of a pain. I'm sure I'll want to plug it up so my brakes aren't sprayed, but I'm not sure how best to do that. I may just glue a hiking stick medallion over the hole and pretend it is an intentional ornament. A fairly minor detail, but if I was hoping to be able to just bolt together a bunch of parts and have a fully functional bike, this would probably be a seriously annoying. 


Details

Alright, well now I'm just niggling. But hey, details matter. The kit came without ferrules or cable end crimps. The build can be done without them, and they are easy to pick up at the local bike shop or online, but little parts like this give a bike a truly finished appearance. Still, I have to forgive this oversight because what looked like cheapo white cable housing in the website's photos turns out to be plastic coated metallic braided housing. That's just plain elegant.

Caveat emptor

Some of my impressions of the DIY build kit above are obviously less than flattering. They are meant as constructive criticism, and to help potential buyers make their own decisions about whether and how to invest in a new bike. But I want to also acknowledge that I understand the context in which this company, and this bike exist. Cycles Toussaint is obviously a passion project to produce an affordable version of an unusual style of bicycle. I suspect it's being run out of the basements of a couple of enthusiastic guys who are fitting this in on evenings and weekends. And given the bike's low price and the very low number produced, I would be astonished if Cycles Toussaint was making any money on this endeavor, or even covering their costs. So I forgive them, even for the thumb shifters.

With luck, these bikes will help popularize this style of bike, or at least some of their characteristics, and if that happens maybe the company will grow and prosper. But it's just as likely that the entire enterprise will fail, as has happened with similar attempts before (see Kogswell Cycles). The whole idea of selling budget low trail 650b bikes is probably a fool's errand. And I commend the fools who have invested their money, time and passion in the attempt. If the bikes, or their components aren't perfect, that's to be expected. When I decided to purchase the DIY kit I was absolutely expecting that parts of it wouldn't work for me. But I bought it anyway, because this is my first time building a bike and I figured Evan and Angus would, at a minimum, provide the essential parts to get me headed in the right direction (which they certainly did!). You may decide otherwise, particularly if you are mechanically minded and/or have a substantial "Parts" bin.

Okay, so enough kvetching for now. Please join us for our next episode in which an enthusiastic but mechanically inexperienced guy tries to put all these parts together to make a working bicycle.

In with the new...

Previously on MondoBlahBlah...
Previouslier...
Even more previouslier...

Okay, now you're up to speed. I bought a new bike from Cycles Toussaint that comes as a do-it-yourself kit. I'm documenting the entire process of choosing, purchasing and assembling the bike. Once it's ride-able, I'll share my thoughts on the completed bike as I transition from my mid-life-crisis carbon fiber racing bike to a gentler style of cycling.

If the thought of all that bores you into insensibility, I'm sure you're in good company. Feel free to move along to something more interesting. If you are only interested in my impressions of how the "finished" bike performs, you'll have to SKIP AHEAD. Once I've beat this horse into the ground I'll put together an index of the subjects so you can zero in on the part(s) you find interesting. Otherwise, let's continue onto the un-boxing! Speaking of boxes, there are three: the frame, the wheels and everything else.

Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier do-it-your-own-damn-self kit.
Yep, I'm short.
All the way from old Taipei!!!
Everything was pretty well packed, though the fork had a bit of hazing where the crown had obviously rubbed against the packing material in shipping. Not enough to bother me much and it'll probably gloss up with a bit of Pedro's Bike Lust. Otherwise, there's not a scratch on the bike. The fit and finish of the frame is really good. Welds are smooth, the paint is even, the workmanship seems top notch. The first impression is positive. 

As I have said, I am in a transitional phase of my cycling life. Evolving from the race inspired mindset of Bicycling magazine to a more comfort oriented, cyclo-touring approach, inspired more by Bicycle Quarterly. I won't be doing any formal randonneuring or fully supported touring, but I do a couple of centuries a year and hope to spend more time credit card touring. I want the bike to be responsive, but I'm more interested in the simple enjoyment of riding than being fast. And being comfortable usually means sacrificing the attributes racers cherish: lightness, stiffness, aerodynamics.

Weights and Measures


Frame Weight: 4 lbs, 5.2 oz
or 1962 grams
Even when I was buying racing bikes, I was never a complete weight weenie. But this is the first time I've ever built up a bike from scratch and, no doubt still in thrall to the slammed stem mindset, I couldn't resist weighing each part as I took it from the box. Purveyors of such bikes tend to be a bit cagey about their weight, since weight is not the most important characteristic. Plus, unless you're buying a J.P. Weigle, there's little chance your new Rando is going to be anywhere near the weight of a carbon fiber, titanium or even aluminum racing bike. So why invite such an apples to oranges comparison? Still, I couldn't resist.

I had no idea what to expect in terms of weight. The tubing is toward the thin side, but not the whippy standard dimension .7/.4/.7 chomoly. How close, I wondered, would this bike be to my racing bikes?

For those of you interested in the weight of all the bits and pieces that come with the DIY kit, I have listed them all below. Note that this is in no way scientific. I used our kitchen scale and offer no guarantees that it is correctly calibrated to International Bureau of Weights and Measures specifications. That said, here you go.

Weight of Velo Routier DIY parts

Not too bad, though remember this is without a saddle, pedals, bottle cages or a rack, all of which I intend to add. Not to mention water bottles, a frame pump and a lovely handlebar bag. Still, I'm pleased so far. My 2002 Trek 2000 weighed around 23 pounds when purchased and it is a TIG-welded aluminum racing style bike. And I note the new crop of "All Road" bikes being shilled in Bicycling magazine are coming in in the low 20s often without fenders and certainly without racks. My '86 Fuji weighed 26.7 pounds on the showroom floor without fenders, racks or bottle cages. So I'm probably looking at a much more useful bike at right around the same weight.

Okay, so now I have the bike, I've made sure it's in good shape and weighed all the parts. Let's have a good look at it and start assembling it.