Saturday, May 19, 2018

Details

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

Okay, so I know in my last post I insinuated that the next post would have a ride review. I lied. Well, not entirely. I did take the Velo Routier on her maiden voyage, but it was somewhat short lived. I did get in just over 20 miles, but despite a bunch of fiddling around, I couldn't get the brakes to stop rubbing. I'd get them situated, but then each time I would brake they would get off center and drag a bit. As Phillip Cowan noted in a comment to my last post:
The stock Dia-Compe straddle cable is hopeless. It's too short and too stiff to allow the yoke to find center. You'll be crazier than a BB stacker before you get the brake arms to pull evenly. I replaced them with CNC'd ones from Tektro. They have set screws so you can slide the yoke towards the tight shoe and lock it down to force the arms to equalise. They also come with nice long replacement straddle cables that are much more flexible and allow you to set the draw at a more acute angle. They only have a knarp at one end so I had to make ones for the other end in the lathe altho I think you can buy them ready made.
BB stacker. That cracked me up.

Stock Dia Compe straddle hangers
Tektro Cable Straddle Hanger
He's talking about these doohickeys (photos left and right). I stayed with the stock straddle cables and will see if I can make them work. Manufacturing a "knarp" may be easy for Phillip, but I haven't touched a lathe since high school. If the stock wires don't work, I'll look for something ready made that might fit the bill, or you know, buy a lathe. At a minimum, the "cable screws" should make it so the brake pads on both sides contact the brakes at the same time and reset properly when released. That will be an improvement over the current, BB stacking situation.

Metal valve caps? Of course!
Can't have too much shiny silver stuff.
The derailleurs still need some adjustment. I haven't yet gotten the rear to get up on the 36 tooth cog, and the front occasionally jumps to the outside of the big ring. But both amount to little more than fine tuning, and much of the adjustment might be done while riding.

I should now be ready to actually ride the thing. After a long, cool wet week, Sunday looks like it may bring some fair weather so I hope to get out on a 50 miler. I'll take the Allen wrenches and hope to get back with some initial impressions.

By the way, did I mention that I got some aluminum Presta valve caps? I couldn't resist. It was just the thing to play off the braided cable housing and those fenders. A bike like this invites just this sort of vanity. Maybe I'm a romantic but I think a bike like this has a sensuous quality. The way it looks is important. Its lines and colors and various accents invite you to admire it beyond just the function it provides. In truth the Velo Routier does not have the heart stopping aesthetics of a classic French randonneur or a vintage Italian racer, but there is a loveliness to its form derived from its geometry. It has timeless proportions that deserve to be appreciated and accentuated by this type of minor accessory.

In fact, I also have installed a solid brass Crane Suzu bell. I could have used the lighter weight silver bell that came with the bike, which admittedly would look great with all the other silver bling, but the Crane sounds infinitely better. Where most bike bells emit a timid, short lived "ding" the Crane's tone sustains like a musical instrument. My bike not only looks great; it sounds great! Now if I can just make it smell like lavender...

Finally, inspired by Evan's Madonna del Ghisallo medallion, I have mounted a medallion featuring the seal of the Commonwealth of Virginia to the top tube. Made for walking sticks, it fits perfectly around the tube and the color works perfectly with the frame. A little bending to the perfect shape and then a thin layer of silicone glue and voilĂ ! Instant personalization. This is my bike. There are many like it, but this one is mine. Astute observers will note that I live in Maryland, but I am originally from the Old Dominion and am nothing if not a loyal son. Sic Semper Tyrannis!

Okay, join us for our next episode in which I actually spend some time riding the bike and give you my initial impressions. Stay tuned.

Sunday, April 29, 2018

All together now

Previously on MondoBlahBlah... or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

When last we met, I had assembled a lot of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier 2.0. I had help  installing the headset and bottom bracket from Big Mig at the local Bicycle Place. Of course I just jammed the seat post in and hung a saddle on it. I got the cassette and crank set on the frame along with the derailleurs. I got the stem and handlebar worked out. I got the front rack, fenders and brakes all attached with reasonably satisfactory results. Nothing left to do but attend to the final details of connecting all the moving parts and actually making the thing work.

Ta da!
So at last the build is more or less complete and the bike is rideable. I haven't yet had the chance to ride it, and I still have some tinkering to do to get the brakes and front derailleur fine-tuned, but the build is essentially complete. What follows are some observations about the bits and pieces of Cycles Toussaint's DIY build kit.

Shifters

Alright, let's hear it for the good guys. After I pointed out to my buddy Angus that bar-top "thumb" shifters just don't belong on a road bike, he sent me a completely new set of MicroSHIFT bar-end shifters. And really nice shifters they seem to be, right down to the red anodized accents that reinforce the red in the Cycles Toussaint logo. Thanks very much to Cycles Toussaint. And I note that one of my readers, phillip Cowan noted in the comments that CT sent him both styles with his order. I'm totally going to take credit for that.    

Brake Levers

I tried using the supplied Dia Compe brake levers, but I couldn't get them to work right. After futzing with them for a while I gave up and put on a pair of Origin8 Pro Force aero levers I bought a couple of years ago with the Fuji in mind. They went on fine, though there's no barrel adjuster; I tried and tried, but I couldn't figure out how to gracefully insert an "in-line" adjuster in the set-up, so the rear brake has no adjuster, which will probably drive me crazy eventually.

I'm also not too happy about the way the "Pro Force" levers look. They're pretty clearly modern Shimano knock-offs and look a bit chunky on the bike. I suspect I'll leave them for a while as I get used to the bike and swap them out for something more aesthetically pleasing (like the Origin8 Classique Sport model) later on.

See the little thingy on top of the lever?
Barrel Adjuster - the kit didn't come with them.
After having installed the Origin8 levers, I figured out what was wrong with the stock Dia Compe levers. They were missing brake lever ferrules which act as a "stop" for the cable housing as it comes out of the lever, producing the tension the cable needs to pull against the brakes. Without them, the brake levers just don't work. Looking at every picture I can find on the internet, I see that every image of the "stock" Velo Routier features nifty looking barrel adjusters where the cable exits the lever housing - I think they were these: https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-parts/products/dia-compe-cable-adjuster-for-gc202-and-dc204-levers. But no such thing came with the DIY kit, rendering the brakes useless or forcing me to seek out these exotic little parts.

This is just one of the "small parts" irritations with the DIY kit. Cycles Toussaint eventually provided me a handful of shifter cable ferrules and some cable end crimps, but they didn't come with the package - I had to ask for them when I whined about the shifters. I know, niggling details, but the site does say, "We package and ship a complete frame set and build kit to your home (only exclusion is seat and pedals.)" There seems to be some room for interpretation of the word "complete".

Chain

I only mention the chain because Cycles Toussaint sent three, count 'em, three of them. At an MSRP of $36 each, I consider that quite generous. It may be a while before I need a new one. And without prompting, Angus threw in a "master link" when he sent the replacement shifters. Very thoughtful, as it makes it a whole lot easier to install the chain.

Front Derailleur / Crankset

The front derailleur went on without a hitch, but the tolerances were super tight. When the chain gets clear of the derailleur, the crank arm rubs it on each revolution. When I back the derailleur off so the crank arm doesn't rub, but chain grinds against the inside of the derailleur. And every so often the chain gets thrown off the big ring to the outside. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with the parts. I think I just have to do more fiddling with them to get them set up just right.

Rear Derailleur / Cassette

Matching the shifters and front derailleur, the bike comes with a MicroSHIFT rear derailleur and cassette. On the surface it seems like a nicely integrated 2 x 10 drive train with a nice wide gear range. And mostly that's correct. But the rear derailleur (see photo below) doesn't match the big cog cassette (36 teeth). Basically, it just doesn't shift to the lowest gear. Not a huge deal. A 30T x 34T low gear is still plenty low. And 9 speeds in the rear s more than anyone should need. But still - tempt me with a 10 speed / 36T and then give me a 9 speed / 34T, and I'm bound to feel a little cheated. Again. No biggie. Just seems a bit "close, but no cigar."

Various and Sundry

Pump Pegs
A useless appendage - pump peg
forever to remain empty. 
So despite all the really positive aspects of this bike, not the least of which is that it exists at all, there is a really glaring issue I have with it, and that concerns what might be among the most inconsequential details; the pump pegs. One of the truly coolest, quirkiest details on the Velo Routier's frame, the thing that most explicitly pays homage to the constructeurs whose work inspired its design is the dedicated pegs for a frame pump on the left seat stay. Not that single bump on the head tube that some "retro" bikes have, but serious, elegant top and bottom pegs for a classic "pencil" pump. When I saw them I just flipped out - that's a sign of just how seriously these guys at Cycles Toussaint are taking the design of this bike, I thought. What a shame then when I find that they will never fulfill their purpose because there's no such thing as a pump that fits the pegs.

It's not that there are no pumps designed to fit such pegs. In fact Zefal makes a really attractive one, the Classic Lapize. But it doesn't fit. It measures 375 mm or 14.8 inches. The distance between the pegs is 14 5/16 inches or about 363.54 mm. I could conceivably squeeze in a small HPX pump, but it looks like stupid and the connection points just aren't right. It's designed to fit in the spaces of the frame, not between pump pegs. So I'll probably carry a mini-pump in the handlebar bag or use a full size frame pump under the top tube and ride with an empty space between the pump pegs, a forever aspirational void, an unfulfilled longing for elegance and purpose. Pity.

Well, okay, enough with the build. The real question is, how does this low trail 650b bike ride? Stay tuned faithful reader, for my initial review in the next post.

Monday, April 2, 2018

The Front End

Previously on MondoBlahBlah... or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

Hey, that looks kind of like a bike
So now the frame and fork I bought is assembled into a frame set. It's easy enough to hang some wheels on it, stem and handlebars, put on the brakes, jam the seat post into the frame and put a saddle on it. Now it's starting to look like a bike. This is the first time I'm able to actually straddle it and make sure it's going to fit. It looks like the fit is perfect - like a proper bike with a proper diamond frame. Not a compact "modern" bike with a meter of seat post and a "slammed" stem, but a beautifully proportioned bike with the handlebars right around the same height as the saddle. Visually graceful, with classic lines and elegant curves. Will it feel as great as it looks? We'll have to wait until the build is complete to find out, but I generally find that what looks right tends to be right. Time will tell.

The Cockpit

I haven't run the cables yet since I'm still waiting to see what my buddy Angus has in store for me after I nagged him about the inappropriateness of bar-top thumb shifters on a classic road bike. Also, before I complete the drive train, there are a few things up at the front of the bike that I want to work out, since they are central to the entire concept of the 650b Randonneur style bike and they are all interconnected; the front rack, the stem and bars and the front fender.

The Front Rack
No way around it - low trail rando-style bikes are supposed to have delightful handlebar bags sitting on little racks attached to the forks. That's practically the whole point. Cycles Toussaint doesn't include a front rack with the DIY build kit, which is just as well, since I'm not crazy about the rack they designed for this bike anyway. And besides, like just about everything else on these bikes, each rider is likely to have their own preference anyway. I know I do.
The Velo Orange Rando Rack
w/ integrated decaleur

When I set up my '86 Fuji, I installed a nifty little rack that Dia Compe designed to bolt onto its 610 Center-pull brakes. It is an ingenious design and in concert with a solid decaleur that stabilizes the load and distributes the bag's weight appropriately, it would probably work really well. Unfortunately I never quite got around to installing a decaleur, so the bag's weight tended to lean forward on the rack which ultimately caused the mounting tabs to snap. D'oh!

So for the Velo Routier I have decided to go with what seems to be the easiest solution to a solid, stable handlebar bag solution - Velo Orange's Randonneur Front Rack with Integrated Decaleur. The integrated decaleur means I don't have to figure out how to mount a separate decaleur on the bike. I don't have to worry about getting the height and depth right. I don't have to decide whether to use a stem mounted unit or a headset mounted unit. If the rack fits the bag and it fits the bike, I should be good to go. At least that's the idea...

Handlebars and Stem
Pre-fab cockpit from Cycles Toussaint
The Velo Routier DIY kit comes with a pre-assembled 100mm Kalloy stem mounted to a deep drop, round bend handlebar on which Dia Compe brake levers have already been attached. The stem was not going to work because of its proximity to the decaleur/bag. I thought from the beginning that I might want a shorter stem, just to make the riding position more upright, but I figured I'd try what came with the bike before switching. But after placing the front rack in place, I could see that the decaleur would be too close to the handlebars.

Nitto Young Stem / Olympiad Handlebar
Because I am short, the bike's headtube is kind of short, and the 8 inch tall Acorn Boxy Rando handlebar bag comes right up to the bar height or even a bit above it. With the long stem I think it would crowd my fingers. So I've swapped the stem and handlebars for the 70mm Nitto "Young" stem and classic Nitto B114 "Olympiad" handlebar which have about 10mm less drop than the Kalloy bars and about 50mm less total reach. Hopefully the shorter stem and reach of this setup won't be detrimental to the handling of the bike - did Angus and Evan choose the 100mm stem because it's the optimal size for this bike? - I doubt it, since all sizes of the frame come with the same length stem.

I was initially going to just swap out the 100mm Kalloy stem for the Fuji's shorter 70mm Nitto stem and keep the Kalloy handlebars but it turns out that contrary to the Cycles Toussaint website, the handlebars need a 26mm clamp, while the Nitto is a 25.4mm. Though annoying, it's understandable - most new handlebars are 26mm. So I ended up moving both the stem and bars. The fit is pretty good around the handlebar bag, but the bars are too narrow for me at 40cm. To get where I think I want to be, I may have to go with an entirely new setup with a new stem and bar, but for now I'm going to leave it with the Fuji setup and see if I can live with it.

Fenders
What, you might fairly ask, do handlebars have to do with fenders? Well, everything in the front seems to be interconnected in some way. The fenders are ideally attached to the rack which adds additional support for each. And the brakes have to have sufficient clearance to clear the rack strut. So the fender's connected to the rack strut, the rack strut's connected to the decaleur, the decaleur's aligned with the handlebar and stem and the brakes straddle the rack strut. None of this is all that hard, it's just that to get it all right means doing things in the right order and it requires me to have about four hands to hold everything in the right place while the final, essential bolt is tightened. But I've done this part before with the Fuji, so it was just a matter of putting aside a couple of hours to tweak the positions of everything. The key was getting the rack strut bent to the correct position so it wouldn't interfere with the brakes and would attach gracefully to the rack and fender using a single bolt. It's handy to have a bench vise for that bending, but you could do it with some solid pliers or even just leaning on it on the edge of a table.

Yep, starting to look like a bike.
You may notice that the front fender tab is mounted to the front of the crown's brake bolt. I had initially thought it would mount to the rear of side of the crown, but it somehow just didn't fit right that way. It was impossible to get a proper fender line when it was connected there. When I moved the tab to the front of the crown, everything lined right up. Not a huge deal, really, but as a result of that placement, the bottom of the fender lines up just above the axle of the crank set. I'm just going to go out on a limb and guess this arrangement will lead to some pretty damp tootsies on that first wet ride. I probably better just think in terms of getting some mud guards right away and I should probably get the long ones.

For those of you who have never installed a set of fenders like this before, here's a pretty good video explaining it. The only thing I will say is that I prefer a slightly more refined finish so I wouldn't use the bolt cutters - I would used a sharpie, hacksaw and file to get the fender struts to the right length and smooth them out so the aren't jagged and sharp. Of course having said that, I'm happy to report that the struts that came with the Cycles Toussaint DIY build kit didn't require cutting at all. I think if the rear dropout was vertical it could have been a bit crowded, but with the semi-horizontal dropout there's plenty of room for the slight excess length of the strut.

Brakes
Cool-Stop brake pads on Dia-Compe 750s
Astute readers may have noticed that I have swapped out the stock Dia Compe brake pads for some Kool-Stop brake shoes and dual compound pads. Hopefully that will add some grip to brakes that are routinely described as "mushy". If the Dia Compe 750s just can't do the job, I'll swap them out for a pair of 1974 Mafac Racers from a friend's old college bike. Jan Heine raves about the similar Mafac Raids as if they are the best brakes ever made. We'll see.

Alright, sure, so now I've got a bunch of components bolted to a bike frame. So what? Can I ride it? No. I still have to install the brake levers, the shifters, put a chain on it, run some cables and figure out how to adjust it all. Only then will it be a bike. I'm still waiting to see if my buddy Angus is really going to send me an alternative to the thumb shifters the bike shipped with, but I'm eager to get this baby on the road, so I may not be able to wait. It looks so much like a bike, it seems a shame to just have it sitting there on the stand in the garage. Spring is in the air and a young man's fancy turns to thoughts of asphalt! Come on man, let's get this show on the road.

So join us for our next exciting episode of Mondo Blah Blah when I install the drive train and hopefully complete the build.

Wednesday, March 21, 2018

From Frame to Frameset

Previously on MondoBlahBlah... or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

The frame has been bought, the boxes opened, the parts examined. At this point there's nothing to do but put it all together and see if it's a bike. This is likely to take me a while, as I've never done it before and I don't have all the appropriate tools. I want to do as much of it as I can myself, but I'm not too proud to ask for help from my friendly neighborhood bike shop. The next few posts will cover the ins and outs of my efforts to assemble my brand new bike.

Frame Protector
First things first. The Velo Routier is a steel frame and as we all know, steel rusts. So before I started hanging components on the frame, I gave it a good spray with some Progold Steel Frame Protector. Progold is one of the two widely available aerosol products that make it easy to apply a protective layer inside a steel bicycle frame, the other being J.P. Weigle's Frame Saver. Eco-minded artisans may want to use boiled linseed oil to achieve the same effect. More power to you.
Progold straw injection site

A word of warning about the Progold. As noted in the comments on Amazon.com, the little straw that fits into the spray nozzle doesn't fit very well, and sure enough, on my first good spray into the hole in the fork crown, it went flying into the fork, never to be seen again. I spent a little time at a futile attempt to get the straw to come back out the hole I shot it into, but that activity is akin to psychological torture, so I gave up pretty quickly. I just grabbed a straw from the nearest can of WD-40 and was back to the races. Hopefully only you and I, dear reader, will ever know that there is a little plastic straw in the right fork leg of my Velo Routier.

Speaking of frame protection, I plan to put one of those clear plastic stickers on the chainstay to protect the paint from inadvertent chain slap, but that can wait until later in the build. Depending on where the cables end up, I'll probably also add some Jagwire cable protectors, but again, that can wait.

Headset
Okay, as a newbie, the installation of the headset was the part of the build causing me the most anxiety. I only had to watch one or two videos like this (https://youtu.be/lUy_tpAi0Xk) to convince me that this is the procedure best handled by a professional. Yes there are plenty of videos out there showing you that you can do it using nothing more than a hammer, some pvc tubing, a threaded rod and a couple of bolts, but still. The idea of bashing the fork crown race on my brand spanking new bike with a hammer gave me pause. So I begin my build report with the confession that I took my newly unboxed frame and fork over to Big Mig at the local Bicycle Place and had him install the headset for me. Within minutes he had transformed my frame and fork into a "frameset".

Bottom bracket
There are many people on the interweb who insist that before a bottom bracket can be installed on a new-from-the-factory frame, the bottom bracket shell must be "faced" and "chased" which basically means scraping any excess paint from the "face" of the shell and reaming the threads so everything is nice and smooth and even. I asked my pal Angus at Cycles Toussaint if this was necessary and he said they hadn't been doing it with the bikes they have been assembling. He did, however advise me to clean the BB threads well "like a baby's bottom." While I was at the Bicycle Place I asked Big Mig for a second opinion and he concurred, further clarifying that with cartridge bottom brackets such as the one shipped with the Velo Routier DIY kit, there's no need. Other types of bottom brackets are apparently touchier.

Shiny silver stuff - The Velo Routier's Crankset
Anyway, since I was asking him about it, Big Mig just went ahead and slapped the cartridge in while we chatted about it. A slathering of grease, a twist of the wrench and before I knew it, he was done. So, now the forks are attached to the frame and the crankset is installed. And what a pretty crankset it is. Honestly, though  Rene Herse cranks are obviously a bit lovelier with their loopy spiders, and Velo Orange cranksets have fluted arms and their cool etched logo (and don't even get me started waxing poetic about the Drillium!!!), the Velo Routier's smooth, spare shape is just the kind of shiny silver stuff you want on a bike like this. The form truly follows the function and the simplicity of the shapes with their mirror finish just really appeals to me. Sure, I'm also a fan of the old Shimano 600 Arabesque shifters and fancy lugs, but on a TIG welded frame, simple is better.

Next up ... the Cockpit!!!

Monday, March 12, 2018

You never get a second chance to make...

A first impression


Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

The new Velo Routier has finally arrived from Calgary. I've inspected the frame and weighed all the parts and everything made it in one piece. It is a lovely frame/fork and I'm sure it will build out to be a fine looking bike. So now it's time to roll up my sleeves and start the assembly process. First, let's lay out the parts on the bench and think about how they're going to work.

My first impression is that the components have been selected with the usual balance between quality and economy. The kit comes with a Neco roller bearing headset, which is recommended for low trail bikes to reduce the chance of shimmy; the bottom bracket seems to spin smoothly and the wheels are highly polished, easy spinning and seem strong. I am pleased to find that they chose 65mm crank arms for the 51cm frame - a sensible choice to adjust proportion for the smaller rider. Trek did not scale the crank arms to either of the bikes I've bought from them - I got the same crank length as a six foot rider would get. So, score one for Cycles Toussaint!

The Cockpit

The handlebars seem to be 42cm hung on a 100mm stem. They have what I would consider a gigantic drop, looking to be around 150mm. I might have preferred a slightly shorter stem, and a bit less drop, but I'll ride what they sent me before I decide I have to swap. These "fit" things are very personal so they were very much to be expected. And who knows? Maybe I'll learn something by trying Cycle Toussaint's choices.

Shifters
Thumb shifters on a Road bike?
Bar ends?
A picture is worth a thousand words, and in my experience usually carries more weight in the brain than text. So, while the description on the website clearly read, "microSHIFT 10 Speed Thumbshifter SL-T10 (quantity 2)", the photo of the DIY build shows what looks like bar-end shifters (photo left). I think I got it in my mind that they were selling "thumbies" along with bar-end pods so they could be converted. What I got (photo right) seem to be straight up dedicated bar-top thumb shifters that won't fit into the fittings for downtube or bar-end shifter bosses. I have sent an email to my new buddy Angus asking if the levers can be made to work with bar-end pods. He promised to look into the issue, and ultimately offered to send me some replacement shifters and throw in "a couple of chain quick links as well for good measure." Try getting that kind of response from Specialized! At the time of this writing I'm not quite sure what they'll send, so you'll have to wait for the Dummy's Guide to Screwing Up Bicycle Assembly episode to find out.

Fenders

Front fender L-bracket
One of the improvements to Version 2 of the Velo Routier frame is a better attachment for front fenders. As the site explains, "the front fork crown will now have an underside 5mm threaded fitting to allow fenders to be attached to the crown directly." But with the DIY build kit, the front fender is set up with a riveted L-bracket for mounting the fender to the back of the fork using the brake bolt.

As brake bolt mounting solutions go, the riveted tab is probably more secure and rattle free than the admittedly more flexible crimp-on fender bracket provided by Velo Orange, but it's obviously less than optimum, as evidenced by the fact that the company went to the trouble to re-design the fork for direct mounting to the underside of the crown. Not a deal-breaker, but inquiring minds want to know...

Fender hole inches from the bridge
There is a hole drilled in the rear fender, presumably where it is supposed to mount to the seatstay bridge. But the location isn't even close. I'm going to have to drill a hole in the right location to make it work. Not a big deal, and I wouldn't have been surprised to have to do that anyway But having a hole in the wrong location is a bit of a pain. I'm sure I'll want to plug it up so my brakes aren't sprayed, but I'm not sure how best to do that. I may just glue a hiking stick medallion over the hole and pretend it is an intentional ornament. A fairly minor detail, but if I was hoping to be able to just bolt together a bunch of parts and have a fully functional bike, this would probably be a seriously annoying. 


Details

Alright, well now I'm just niggling. But hey, details matter. The kit came without ferrules or cable end crimps. The build can be done without them, and they are easy to pick up at the local bike shop or online, but little parts like this give a bike a truly finished appearance. Still, I have to forgive this oversight because what looked like cheapo white cable housing in the website's photos turns out to be plastic coated metallic braided housing. That's just plain elegant.

Caveat emptor

Some of my impressions of the DIY build kit above are obviously less than flattering. They are meant as constructive criticism, and to help potential buyers make their own decisions about whether and how to invest in a new bike. But I want to also acknowledge that I understand the context in which this company, and this bike exist. Cycles Toussaint is obviously a passion project to produce an affordable version of an unusual style of bicycle. I suspect it's being run out of the basements of a couple of enthusiastic guys who are fitting this in on evenings and weekends. And given the bike's low price and the very low number produced, I would be astonished if Cycles Toussaint was making any money on this endeavor, or even covering their costs. So I forgive them, even for the thumb shifters.

With luck, these bikes will help popularize this style of bike, or at least some of their characteristics, and if that happens maybe the company will grow and prosper. But it's just as likely that the entire enterprise will fail, as has happened with similar attempts before (see Kogswell Cycles). The whole idea of selling budget low trail 650b bikes is probably a fool's errand. And I commend the fools who have invested their money, time and passion in the attempt. If the bikes, or their components aren't perfect, that's to be expected. When I decided to purchase the DIY kit I was absolutely expecting that parts of it wouldn't work for me. But I bought it anyway, because this is my first time building a bike and I figured Evan and Angus would, at a minimum, provide the essential parts to get me headed in the right direction (which they certainly did!). You may decide otherwise, particularly if you are mechanically minded and/or have a substantial "Parts" bin.

Okay, so enough kvetching for now. Please join us for our next episode in which an enthusiastic but mechanically inexperienced guy tries to put all these parts together to make a working bicycle.

In with the new...

Previously on MondoBlahBlah...
Previouslier...
Even more previouslier...

Okay, now you're up to speed. I bought a new bike from Cycles Toussaint that comes as a do-it-yourself kit. I'm documenting the entire process of choosing, purchasing and assembling the bike. Once it's ride-able, I'll share my thoughts on the completed bike as I transition from my mid-life-crisis carbon fiber racing bike to a gentler style of cycling.

If the thought of all that bores you into insensibility, I'm sure you're in good company. Feel free to move along to something more interesting. If you are only interested in my impressions of how the "finished" bike performs, you'll have to SKIP AHEAD. Once I've beat this horse into the ground I'll put together an index of the subjects so you can zero in on the part(s) you find interesting. Otherwise, let's continue onto the un-boxing! Speaking of boxes, there are three: the frame, the wheels and everything else.

Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier do-it-your-own-damn-self kit.
Yep, I'm short.
All the way from old Taipei!!!
Everything was pretty well packed, though the fork had a bit of hazing where the crown had obviously rubbed against the packing material in shipping. Not enough to bother me much and it'll probably gloss up with a bit of Pedro's Bike Lust. Otherwise, there's not a scratch on the bike. The fit and finish of the frame is really good. Welds are smooth, the paint is even, the workmanship seems top notch. The first impression is positive. 

As I have said, I am in a transitional phase of my cycling life. Evolving from the race inspired mindset of Bicycling magazine to a more comfort oriented, cyclo-touring approach, inspired more by Bicycle Quarterly. I won't be doing any formal randonneuring or fully supported touring, but I do a couple of centuries a year and hope to spend more time credit card touring. I want the bike to be responsive, but I'm more interested in the simple enjoyment of riding than being fast. And being comfortable usually means sacrificing the attributes racers cherish: lightness, stiffness, aerodynamics.

Weights and Measures


Frame Weight: 4 lbs, 5.2 oz
or 1962 grams
Even when I was buying racing bikes, I was never a complete weight weenie. But this is the first time I've ever built up a bike from scratch and, no doubt still in thrall to the slammed stem mindset, I couldn't resist weighing each part as I took it from the box. Purveyors of such bikes tend to be a bit cagey about their weight, since weight is not the most important characteristic. Plus, unless you're buying a J.P. Weigle, there's little chance your new Rando is going to be anywhere near the weight of a carbon fiber, titanium or even aluminum racing bike. So why invite such an apples to oranges comparison? Still, I couldn't resist.

I had no idea what to expect in terms of weight. The tubing is toward the thin side, but not the whippy standard dimension .7/.4/.7 chomoly. How close, I wondered, would this bike be to my racing bikes?

For those of you interested in the weight of all the bits and pieces that come with the DIY kit, I have listed them all below. Note that this is in no way scientific. I used our kitchen scale and offer no guarantees that it is correctly calibrated to International Bureau of Weights and Measures specifications. That said, here you go.

Weight of Velo Routier DIY parts

Not too bad, though remember this is without a saddle, pedals, bottle cages or a rack, all of which I intend to add. Not to mention water bottles, a frame pump and a lovely handlebar bag. Still, I'm pleased so far. My 2002 Trek 2000 weighed around 23 pounds when purchased and it is a TIG-welded aluminum racing style bike. And I note the new crop of "All Road" bikes being shilled in Bicycling magazine are coming in in the low 20s often without fenders and certainly without racks. My '86 Fuji weighed 26.7 pounds on the showroom floor without fenders, racks or bottle cages. So I'm probably looking at a much more useful bike at right around the same weight.

Okay, so now I have the bike, I've made sure it's in good shape and weighed all the parts. Let's have a good look at it and start assembling it. 

Friday, February 23, 2018

And the winner is...

The Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V2!!

or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.


Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V2 with braze-ons
After a somewhat painstaking consideration of the three most popular entry-level low trail 650b "randonneur" style bikes, I ultimately decided to purchase the second edition of the Velo Routier from Calgary's boutique Cycles Toussaint. The order has been placed, a couple of emails have been exchanged with Angus Cowan (one of the two partners running the company), and the bike is on its way. Now I just watch the CanPar/FedEx notifications and impatiently await the arrival.

Everything sounds better when you say it in French. Velo Routier. Ooo, la, la. It just rolls off the tongue, smooth and elegant. It basically translates as "road bike". Cycle Toussaint Velo Routier sounds so much better than All Saints Road Bike, don't you think?

Though there are many reasons for choosing this frame over the very worthy competitors, the primary reasons I went with the Velo Routier probably boiled down to these:
  • Jan Heine's review of the V1 in Bicycle Quarterly was quite favorable, essentially implying that the Velo Routier is the reincarnation of the famous Kogswell Porteur/Randonneur he helped design back in the 2000s. If it's good enough for Jan, I'm hoping it's good enough for my first low-trail bike.
  • I love the way center-pull brakes look and I really want to try them with dedicated brazed on bosses. I'm given to understand that direct mounted center pulls offer some of the best modulation in the business. I'm eager to test that assertion. 
  • The Velo Routier is sold as a more or less complete bike* (see caveat below) while the Grand Randonneur (my second choice) and Polyvalent are sold only as framesets. I tinker a bit with bikes, see to it that the brakes work and futz with the gears to keep them from making too much noise, but the idea of figuring out which headset, bottom bracket and derailleurs fit on the bike is a bit daunting to me. I may not find the package ideal, but this way somebody has at least chosen a "starter" set of components on which I can build. And who knows, maybe the Toussaint guys have put together a package that will suit my needs perfectly. 
  • Braze-ons, baby! Look at that seatstay bridge. And what a lovely brake cable stop. Pump pegs? Fuhgeddaboudit. Look, there are certainly more beautiful examples of the welding arts at the NAHBS, but on a production frame? I haven't see anything better. 
*At present the company isn't offering complete, assembled bikes. Presumably they don't have the labour to assemble them. But they are selling un-assembled bikes, providing all the necessary components in a do-it-yourself kit. They ship everything but pedals and a saddle. You do the assembly.

Velo Routier V2 DIY Build Kit
My intention is to build the bike as designed and see what works and what doesn't. If it's perfect, I'll go with it as-is. If not, I'll modify it until it suits me. I will probably start out with the Brooks Cambium C17 saddle and see if that works. I currently have it installed on the Fuji, which has primarily been used for fairly short rides. I haven't yet tried it as a long distance saddle. So we'll see how I like it. If that doesn't work out, I'll probably try the Specialized Avatar from the now defunct Madone or my trusty old Selle San Marco Era Pro. I'll go with "modern" pedals, moving my Speedplay Frogs from the carbon fiber super bike. Once I've had time to evaluate the standard build, I'll decide if I have to make changes. Having said that, here is a listing of stuff I may want to change.

What, me worry?

I've placed the order so I must feel confident that this is the bike for me, right? Oh that consumerism were so simple. It's an inexpensive mail order bike of a design that is new to me, with components I
have never laid eyes on. So no, I'm not entirely sure it's going to live up to expectations. Which is the exact reason I'm buying an entry-level bike, rather than having one custom tailored to my specifications. I can afford to have this one not work out and chalk it up to experience. I've done my homework as best I can and hopefully all will be well, but here are some of my concerns and lingering doubts.

Reviews of the Dia Compe 750 brakes have been mixed, with Jan Heine particularly referring to them in his Bicycle Quarterly "first ride" review as "mushy". I have found the same issue with the Gran Compe 610s I have on the Fuji, though they are mounted to the fork with a back plate and rear bolt rather than directly to the fork bosses. Should Jan's assessment prove true, I have a set of 1974 Mafac "Racers" I can scavenge from an old Urago a buddy passed down to me. Based on what I've read on the forums they should fit and I think they're pretty close to the vaunted Mafac "Raid" brakes that Jan loves so much.

The drive train is a MicroSHIFT 10 speed friction set-up, with bar-end shifters powering a lowish (46/30) double up front and a super wide (11/36!) chainring in the rear. I'm really hoping it works out because I increasingly need that wide range for climbing. Remember, I'm transitioning from typical Shimano Ultegra 50/34, 11/28 brifters, so the change could be significant. I've got Suntour down-tube shifters on the Fuji, and it's mostly fine once I get used to it; I'm looking forward to trying the bar-ends where shifting should theoretically involve a bit less awkward reaching.

Courtesy Lovely Bicycle
My biggest worry about bar-end shifters is about the swoopy cable routing and the front-mounted bag. Builds I've seen online have looked extremely kludgy and inelegant. If I can't make that work to my satisfaction I may go to mounting shifters on the down-tube which makes everything a lot simpler. Or I may even be dorky enough to try a stem-mounted solution, which frankly makes a ton of sense to me, despite being almost unheard of since the bike boom. We'll have to see.

Speaking of front mounted bags, the Velo Routier has a bit of an issue with front racks. The first version of the frame came with a custom-designed rack that was an obvious last-minute kluge (Evan admitted as much in the BQ review). To get around the brazed on center-pull brake arms, the rack struts rose steeply from their connections on the fork crowns. This leaves the rack's platform hovering way too high over the fender, which both looks stupid and probably compromises performance by having the weight of the handlebar bag higher than necessary. I'll do a little measuring when the bike gets here and see if I can make a Velo Orange rack work with the brakes. Just eye-balling it, I'm guessing it's possible and I'm not the first to try, so...

VO Randonneur Front Rack
Some folks on the forums (fora! okay, I'll stop doing this now) have noted that the Kalloy KL-100 Alloy quill stem and handlebars are a bit flexy, so I'll have to see how that works out. I can bring over the Nitto stem from the Fuji and there's a really neat looking Pivo stem on the aforementioned Urago that might work. But I may just have to replace the handlebars with a new set, possibly some Nitto B132 Randonneurs or the equivalent from Velo Orange. I'll have to see once they get here.

The low gearing in the front causes some anxiety too, but most of the 650b's are set up with the 46 tooth chain ring, so maybe it's the right thing. I'm coming from 52/42/30 and 50/34 chainrings, so the thought of losing four or more teeth on the top end causes me just a bit of pause. But I'm open to the possibility that this will be a positive transition to a slightly less stressful way of riding, less concerned with top performance and more aligned with comfort and distance. I just hope the stuff isn't junk. I rode some MicroSHIFT brifters on a vintage aluminum Pinarello Galileo on a trip to Italy a few years ago and they worked just fine. So, that gives me some slight comfort. Fingers crossed.

The VR is currently winging its way across the North American continent!
Join us for the next episode of MondoBlahBlah, when the Velo Routier arrives!!!

Supple-mentary Readin'
In the mean time, see what others have been saying about the Velo Routier.

https://www.nationalobserver.com/2016/04/18/cycles-toussaint-fast-comfortable-and-bit-bling
https://rideyourjourney.com/2015/02/23/velo-routier-frame-v-2/
http://www.brooklynrandonneur.com/2015/08/
http://www.brooklynrandonneur.com/2016/03/cycles-toussaint-velo-routier-v2-ride.html
https://stonehog.com/2014/03/03/initial-velo-routier-notes/
https://stonehog.com/2016/01/06/trail-riding/
https://stonehog.com/2015/12/23/new-toussaints/
http://www.cycleexif.com/cycles-toussaint

Wednesday, February 21, 2018

You take the high trail, I'll take the low trail

Previously on MondoBlahBlah...

 Low trail bike
Okay, so I've decided I want to try a low trail "Randonneur" style bike with 650b wheels and wide tires. Now what? Where do I find one? The local bike shop? Maybe in Seattle or Portland, but not in Bethesda, Maryland.

I could run down to the local Masi dealer and see if they'd be willing to bring in one of their Speciale Randonneurs for me to test ride, but at 41 mm of fork trail it's only barely "low trail", and with no fork braze-ons for the type of mini rack typical of any bike labeled "Randonneur" I'm loath to include it among my choices. And that round crown fork is just a deal breaker for me. So, nice try Masi, but though it's headed in the right direction, the Speciale is just not quite there yet. So with no local bike shop choices, it's off to the internet!

There are only a few companies producing low trail frames and forks that satisfy my requirements. It's still a niche design and the reality of the market is such that the really nice models tend to be a bit to the pricey side. Here I would include the Boulder Bicycles All Road and the Box Dog Pelican. These are gorgeous, small batch, American made bikes, lovingly crafted by artisan craftsmen. Once you get them outfitted with the kinds of accessories they are designed to have, you'd be lucky to get away for under about $4,000. A very reasonable price for a well made bike likely to be handed down to your children, especially in an age when a Chinese-made mid-priced plastic racer can easily run much more than that. But it's a lot to pay for a bike with unfamiliar geometry. It's a lot to pay to see if you like it.

So before going all-in on the low trail concept, a lot of us want to try the entry level, to see if it is all that it's cracked up to be. After all I didn't buy a $5,000 carbon fiber racing bike until after I had ridden a much less expensive aluminum version for nearly a decade.

There are really two options to get into a low trail 650b on a budget; two companies that have taken the risk of producing economical bikes for Bicycle Quarterly (BQ) fans. Soma Fabrications of San Francisco and Cycles Toussaint of Calgary, Alberta. Both companies offer Taiwanese frames based more or less on the designs championed by BQ for about $500 US. I should add that Velo Orange of Annapolis, Maryland also makes such a frame, but their Polyvalent is about $100 more expensive. All three bikes share very similar geometry, the ability to ride wide, fendered tires and easily mount front racks for those gorgeous French handlebar bags. All are made with similarly sized chromoly tubing (.8/.5/.8 the smaller sizes, with .9/6/.9 on larger frames), which Jan thinks is a bit stout, but which is probably about as thin as you're ever likely to see on a production bike - remember, these have to support 135 pound racers and 280 pound cruisers. I am to the heavy side of the cyclist weight classification, closing in on two hundred pounds, so the slightly thicker tubing is probably just fine.
The Polyvalent's Disk-ready fork

Though there are tons of tiny differences between the three models, the primary functional difference between them is the brakes. If you feel strongly about brakes, this is an easy way to choose. The Soma Fabrications Grand Randonneur has forks for cantilever brakes, the Velo Orange Polyvalent has forks for disk brakes and the Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier has forks for the ever-so-exotic brazed on center-pulls. The center pulls and cantilevers are pure retro, though the cantilever frame bosses can accommodate linear-pull brakes, which are said to offer greater braking power than cantilevers. Anyway, if you want a low trail bike built around your preferred style of brakes, there you go.

Style Points

Of course you may be more concerned about style, and there are marked differences there too. The Soma GR has a really lovely white frame with maroon accents. The Velo Routier in its current version is "tricolor", basically royal blue with a red and white logo. The new Polyvalent is offered in a lovely "deep emerald" green and a sort of pastel lilac. I personally hate the lilac, but find the other three really attractive.

The Polyvalent has the extra disk brake braze-ons, which no self respecting retrogrouch could tolerate but which probably provides the most confident braking of the three. The fork crown also seems to be somewhat unconventional, though it's hard to tell from the photographs on the site.  The Velo Routier has traditional, classic frame geometry. It does feature pump pegs on the left seat stay, which allows you to sport a snazzy pump in a really cool place, if you go in for that sort of thing.

Soma Fabrications Grand Randonneur
The latest Grand Randonneur has the loveliest fork of the three, with an elegant "French Flick", a tight bend low on the forks that provides the rake. But the GR has a sloping top tube, which definitely marks it as a "modern" bike, while the other two have level top tubes. There have been some complaints on the forums (I know, it should be "fora" but who says that?!!) that the GR frame looks too small, in the way many modern bikes with "compact" geometry do. Jan Heine noted that in his Bicycle Quarterly review. But I've also read that the geometry is stacked higher in the front providing a more upright position. I don't have one to measure, so I can't say. Still, "traditional" bikes like this generally feature level top tubes and actually tend, as their predecessors did, to be a bit bigger than "modern" bikes, showing less seat post and stem length. That difference marks the GR as a stand-out, though not necessarily in a good way.

Velo Routier Semi-Horizontal Drop Outs
One other note that might determine a winner among these three choices. The second generation of the Velo Routier has a semi-horizontal rear drop out (the other two have the now pretty much standard vertical dropout). It allows for easy conversion to a single speed or internally geared hub both of which can require chain tensioning by sliding the axle fore or aft in the drop out. You see this on a lot of older bikes, but not on many new ones. This is a deal breaker for some riders, as it can make it a real pain in the ass to change tires, particularly on a fendered bike. So there's that.

And finally, Soma and Velo Orange bikes all seem to feature proper head badges, and pretty attractive ones at that. The Velo Routier has a decal in its place. Not a big deal for me, as I'll usually have a handlebar bag covering it anyway, but head badges are lovely things and it's kind of a shame Cycles Toussaint chose the decal instead.

Alright, so having painstakingly considered all the options, which one did I go with? The answer after the break...