Showing posts with label steel bike. Show all posts
Showing posts with label steel bike. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 20, 2021

Forward into the past*

Among my modest stable of velocopedal conveyances, there is a little gem I picked up a few years ago on Craigslist for $175. It is a 1986 Fuji Allegro, a prime example of late Bike Boom Japanese production; toward the lower end of Fuji's product line, it featured a proprietary triple-butted lugged "Valite" steel frame outfitted with a typical mix of components from Nitto, Suntour, Sugino and Dia Compe. All the great pre-Shimano Asian names. I used the bike as a commuter for about six years, but after a job change a couple of years ago, the ol' Allegro kind of fell into a bit of neglect. As I have been doing some work on my primary bike, I figured I'd go ahead and gussy up the old Fuji while I was at it.

1986 Fuji Allegro
1986 Fuji Allegro
Off the factory floor the Allegro featured typical-for-the-time stem-mounted friction shifters, extension or "suicide" brake levers and foam handlebar grips. All the hallmarks of cheap mass-production bikes of the times. Yikes! The unfortunate choice of such "fashionable" components obscures the underlying quality of an otherwise fairly well-made bike. 

Judging from the sticker at the base of the seat tube, my Allegro was originally sold by the Killeen Bicycle Center of Killeen, Texas. And from the looks of it, somebody rode the snot out of it. There is a groove worn into the front derailleur where somebody seems to have routinely failed to trim it after shifting to the smallest cog on the rear cluster. To its credit, the bombproof SunTour ARX derailleur still works just fine regardless, as do all the components on the bike. By the time I got it, there was a suede Selle San Marco saddle (a Concor?) on it but otherwise it seemed to be in more or less original. The guy who sold it to me, a prodigious Craigslist bike-flipper, had moved the shifters to the downtube, ran some new cables and generally cleaned it up a bit, but it still had the original wheels, foam grips and pedals, or reasonable facsimiles thereof.     

When I took stewardship, the first thing I did was replace the single-pivot side-pull Dia Compe brakes. I replaced them with much better looking Gran Compe 610 center-pulls, though in honesty they don't work appreciably better. But they look fantastic and at the time I was plunging headlong toward the Jan Heine abyss. I swapped the suede saddle for a new-at-the-time Brooks Cambium, put on some Velo Orange fenders, attached a Pletscher rack on which to mount some saddle bags and in so doing created a pretty dependable commuter that served me quite well for a few years. Though after getting mistreated and neglected for the better part of a decade, it seemed a good time for a bit of an overhaul. But where to start?

Panaracer Pasela 27 x 1 1/8 tires
Panaracer Pasela 27 x 1 1/8 tires

Wheels

Those super-long valve stems are protruding from a newly acquired set of wheels. The original wheels had seen better days, with grinding bearings in the hubs, rusty spokes and brake surfaces that were gouged and gritty. Given my recent positive experience putting new wheels on my main bike, I figured I'd start there. 

Quality 27 inch wheels are a bit hard to come by these days. A lot of people would take the opportunity to convert to a 700c wheel, and believe me, I was sorely tempted. Or I could have picked up a nice, shiny set of 27s from Velo Orange, if I got lucky enough to grab 'em during the occasional windows during which they are in stock. In the end I went simple and bought an inexpensive Wheel Master Weinmann LP18 Wheel Set from Amazon.com. $154 for the set. Nothing to write home about, but the rims are relatively straight, the spokes aren't rusty and the hubs don't grind, so they should be an improvement on the 35 year old hoops that were on it; and these seem to be fairly sturdy and well built. I picked up a new six speed 14-28 tooth Shimano freewheel, a new chain and we were off to the races. 

Tires

Quality 27 x 11/8 inch tires are difficult to come by these days too, but fortunately the geniuses over at Panaracer are still making them. The tread on the Pacela Protite tires runs to the thick side, but the rubber compound feels great and the sidewalls seem light and supple compared to the Kenda tires I had on it before. Of course they cost twice as much, but I am finding that it's well worth investing in quality rubber. 

Brakes

And I left on the Gran Compe 610 bridge-mounted center-pull brakes I bought for the bike when I first got it. The brakes suck compared to the direct-mounted center-pulls on the Velo Routier, and they make me understand why manufacturers eventually abandoned the design in favor of dual-pivot side-pulls, but they look so good on the bike that I left them. I put in some Kool Stop salmon pads which help a bit, but the brakes still suck. Ah, vanity...

Gran Compe 610 Center-pull brakes with Tektro straddle cable
Gran Compe 610 Center-pull brakes with Tektro straddle cable

Cockpit

If you followed the saga of the building of my Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier, you know that during that build I abandoned the kit's handlebars and stem, instead scavenging the Fuji's Nitto "Young" stem and Nitto B114 "Olympiad" handlebar. At some point I always intended to move the Fuji's cockpit back from whence it came and install a new Soma Fabrications stem with a Velo Orange "Course" handlebar I picked up a few years ago. But, I've become quite fond of the 70 mm stem and relatively short reach Nitto handlebar, so I left them on the Velo Routier and installed the Soma/VO rig on the Fuji. The reach on this combination is quite a bit longer than the original setup, but I use the bike for shorter efforts and it just looks so damn cool I think I'll leave it. 

1986 Fuji Allegro w/ Soma stem and Velo Orange "Course" bars

Velo Orange doesn't offer the bar anymore, which was basically a re-imagining of the classic Maes Parallel anymore, which is a real shame. They seem to be following the Crust model of funky, "modern" gravel-informed bars, along with disk brakes. (Don't get me wrong; I love Crust and if they ever produce another Lightning Bolt or Romanceür with cantilever brakes, I will snap one up as sure as Bob's your uncle. But the Crust guys ride bikes primarily off-road and like their handlebars super-wide which offends my admittedly retrogrouchy aesthetic sensibilities). I better pick up one of the classically styled Randonneur bars while Velo Orange still makes them, since they've now introduced a goofy looking "Nouveau Randonneur" featuring ultra-shallow drops and extremely short reach and look nothing at all like an actual Randonneur bar. Pretty soon their bikes will all look like Specialized gravel bikes, only with vaguely french sounding names. 

Levers

I mounted the DiaCompe Touring Brake Levers with QR that came with the Velo Routier DIY kit. I initially rejected the notion of using these levers with their swoopy cables. Even too retro for me. The original levers that came on the Allegro were aero, meaning the cables exited the hoods under the bar tape like more "modern" brakes. But the original levers (which weren't the original levers, but a weird looking set of white levers) got seriously scraped up in a minor fall I took a few years back and I figured I'd go ahead and install the ones supplied by Cycles Toussaint. I had bought some brake lever cable adjusters shortly after getting the DIY package (they were left out of the original shipment of my new bike), so I went ahead and used the DiaCompe touring levers. And man, I'm glad I did. They're great. The hoods feel terrific in the hand, the cables with their shiny braided finish look just great, and notwithstanding the somewhat inadequate brakes they actuate, they work really well.

Finally, I wrapped the bars with Cinelli cork tape which has become my go-to colorway on classically styled bikes with brown appointments. I just think it complements the gumwall tires, the brown brake hoods and the leather saddle in a way black just doesn't. 

But do the handlebars have Prosecco corks for bar-end plugs? you ask. You're goddamn right they do!

Prosecco cork bar-end plug
Prosecco cork bar-end plug? Check!

Perch

Astute observers will note I installed the recently abandoned Brooks B-17 Imperial I dumped from my primary bike. I recently read a kind of negative review of that model by the esteemed Brooks at the Retrogrouch. He noted that he thought maybe the factory-installed laces may be keeping the saddle from flexing the way a standard B-17 does. So I have removed the laces and I'll give it another shot. The Fuji won't get long rides like my other bike, so maybe over time the Brooks will do what they are supposed to do and become my favorite saddle ever!

So the bike is back in ride-able condition and has had some noteworthy improvements made. Now the only thing it really needs is a new bottom bracket. I noticed while giving it a good clean that there was some pretty serious wiggling around down there. Despite having developed a large amount of confidence working on a nearly every other component of the bike, there are two areas I'm still hesitant about: head sets and bottom brackets. So I'll take it into the guy and get that swapped out. After that, all there is to do is work out the luggage. I'll probably put on a rack or basket to make it more practical as a flipflop / around town / grocery getter. But that will be another adventure altogether. So stay tuned... 


 * That's right, folks, I'm a Firesign Theater fan.

Monday, June 1, 2020

Avenue de la Republique, Nice, France

Urago hand-made French 10-speed bicycle
There is what I believe to be a 1974 Urago bicycle in my garage. It was my number one riding buddy Z's college bike, and when retiring to the more forgiving climate of the American Southwest last year, he elected to leave it in my hands rather than transport it.

For a variety of reasons, not the least being that it is at least six millimeters too large for me, am not really able to ride it. But even if it was the right size, I probably wouldn't because the beautiful, handmade French frame has been the victim of a vengeful ex-wife with a ball peen hammer. Hell hath no fury. The Urago unfortunately exhibits wifey's handiwork in the form of prominent dents on the top tube and a creative yet obviously amateur red, white and blue spray painted "fade" finish Z applied in an attempt to cover the damage. Too bad. So not only will I never ride this bike, but it seems unlikely anyone will. The top tube would have to be replaced, which is possible, given that it's a lugged frame, but I can't see anyone investing the money to resurrect this particular bike. I certainly wouldn't.

I will nevertheless cherish and make useful what parts I can, and hope to maintain at least some parts as mementos of the decade or more Z and I rode together.

Mafac "Racer" center-pull brakes
Most of the components are nothing particularly special. The drive train was obviously overhauled in the late seventies or maybe early eighties, replacing what were almost certainly a mix of Simplex and Spécialités T.A. with 10-speed Shimano 105. There are still some leftovers from the original build, including some cheap looking Simplex shift levers and a great looking Pivo stem. I will definitely scavenge these parts, though I can't imagine actually using them. I'm never going back to a 5-gear rear cluster, and there's a possibility that the the Pivo is one of the notorious French "death stems". Even if it's not dangerous, the Pivo is probably too long for me, and would likely only fit an antique handlebar - like my mid-80's Nitto Olympiad. So I likely won't use these parts, but couldn't bear to get rid of them.

The parts I'm eager to scavenge, and am most likely to use are the brakes. Typical of European bikes of the time, the Urago came with MAFAC "Racer" center-pull brakes, mounted on a plate to the bolt hole in the middle of the fork crown. That was pretty standard during the bike boom. The "Racer" was not the top of MAFAC's line, but according to both Sheldon Brown and Jan Heine, they are still among the best brakes ever made, especially when direct-mounted to dedicated braze-ons like I have on the Velo Routier. The plastic parts are beyond their prime, but everything else is probably as good as ever. Fortunately, Rene Herse sells a rebuild kit for MAFAC brakes that replaces the plastic bits with brass and will generally rehabilitate the brakes. The Diacompe 750s now on my Velo Routier work just fine (my next post will likely be about them) and there's no need to swap - but c'mon, MAFAC.

MAFAC Brake Levers with OEM "gum" hoods
I'll probably take the MAFAC branded brake levers too, but I'm not sure I'll use them any time soon. I really love the Origin 8 Classiq aero set I have with the brown hoods and the drillium levers. But I'll toss 'em in the box and see if a need ever arrives. I'll probably want to pick up some hood covers from Velo Orange while I'm at it - I can't believe they'll be around forever and the originals are pretty well dry rotted.

The other thing I'll probably scavenge from the Urago is the wheels. They're 27 inch wheels like the ones I have on my Fuji, though they look to be in a lot better shape. I'll have to see if the hubs will accommodate the two extra gears (the Fuji is an '86 14-speed while the Urago is a '74 10-speed), but I think they should, and this will buy the old rice-cranker a few more years until I have to decide whether to convert to 700c.

Center-pull cable guide, "DEPOSE"
There's also a cheap but intriguing cable stay that reads, "DEPOSE". I presume the word is  dépose meaning to "take down".  I'll definitely keep that, though I'm not sure it would work on most modern bikes or that I'd ever need to use it.

As the weather warms up I'll probably get out the Dremel and try to polish up the Racers. I've got a new stem and handlebar I've been wanting to install on the Vélo Routier and I really should put the Fuji back in working order - I scavenged it for parts during the Routier build and have never really put it back together. So as the weather gets nicer I'll probably pull out the bike stand and tend to a couple of these pandemic projects. Right after I clean the gutters and do all the pruning and lay down some mulch. Oh, fuckit, I think I'll just go for a ride instead...

Sunday, November 10, 2019

Weights and Measures

Rolling out the door, my awesome low trail, 650b steel bike weighs 32.6 pounds, according to my bathroom scale. That's with two full water bottles, spare tubes, tools, snacks and a rain jacket, should I need one. That is, ready to ride. That's almost 17 pounds heavier than my midlife crisis carbon fibre superbike. Okay, not true, because the 15 pound 9 ounce Project One didn't include pedals, bottle cages and bottles or a saddle that a human being could actually be comfortable on. Every Bontrager saddle I ever tested was an ass hatchet. Anyway, for the purposes of discussion, I'm content to give the racing bike extra weight weenie credit. So, let's just say 17 pound difference between the two bikes. In bicycle terms where even casual cyclists are willing to pay thousands of dollars to shave a few grams, that is absolutely huuuuuggge...

Autumn in Rock Creek
Today you can buy a really nice Asian-made carbon fiber racing bike that weighs around 20 pounds for well under $2,000 (US). I verified this today - Performance Bike is offering a Fuji 2019 SL 2.5 Competition Road Bike for $1,699. It's a 650 gram frame with a Shimano 105 groupset. If you spend $5,000 more, you can get that weight down to around fifteen pounds. You know, DuraAce, much lighter wheelset, etc.   

One of the lightest racing bikes available, the latest Specialized Tarmac costs $11,000 and weighs around 13.78lbs (6.25kg). That's without pedals, bottle cages, computer or tool bag. My bike, without all those things, weighs about 26 pounds or about 12 lbs more. It's "ready to ride" weight is higher because I choose to make it more practical with a handlebar bag to carry useful stuff so I don't have to stuff my pockets or do without.

My bike cost $1,350 plus an undetermined amount of labor, but I'll be generous and say my "inept" mechanic's rate, plus the $150 to ship the bike from Calgary brought the total cost to $2,000. So the $9,000 price difference, divided by the 12 pound weight difference runs about $750 per pound. I can only presume it's worth it, because Rock Creek Park is filled with high-end bikes like the Tarmac.

On July 4 of this year, I stepped on that same scale and the number that came up was 198+. For argument sake, let's call it 200 standard American pounds. So, as I rode my bike that day, the total package weighed in around 232 pounds. Heavyweight horsepower, indeed! Since that time I have lost a bit of body weight. The number on that scale this morning was 168.8 pounds. So on today's ride, the total package of man and machine comes to 201.4 pounds. Which is to say, I've lost just about the entire bike's weight from my body in the past four months or so. AND it is to say that walking out the door, the total package weighs over 13 pounds less than if I was riding the aforementioned carbon fiber wonder machine at my previous weight. ALL of which is to say, no matter how much you pay for a bike, you'll never shave 30 pounds.

There are a lot of reasons to buy an expensive, featherweight bike. You could want the latest in wind tunnel technology and carbon layup because Bicycling magazine told you you need it. You may watch a lot of bike racing on TV, pepper your speech with words like "roleur" and just want that "pro" aesthetic for yourself. You may have buddies with similar bikes, forcing you to keep up with the Joneses. You might have just turned 40 or 50 and find yourself, as I once did, in the throws of an irrational desire to feel young and fast and energetic. You may just be a dentist and have too much money. All good reasons. But unless you are already at your ideal weight, if you are spending over $5,000 for a bike because it's lighter, save your money. Get a cheaper bike and lay off the doughnuts, you fat bastard!

Friday, February 23, 2018

And the winner is...

The Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V2!!

or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.


Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V2 with braze-ons
After a somewhat painstaking consideration of the three most popular entry-level low trail 650b "randonneur" style bikes, I ultimately decided to purchase the second edition of the Velo Routier from Calgary's boutique Cycles Toussaint. The order has been placed, a couple of emails have been exchanged with Angus Cowan (one of the two partners running the company), and the bike is on its way. Now I just watch the CanPar/FedEx notifications and impatiently await the arrival.

Everything sounds better when you say it in French. Velo Routier. Ooo, la, la. It just rolls off the tongue, smooth and elegant. It basically translates as "road bike". Cycle Toussaint Velo Routier sounds so much better than All Saints Road Bike, don't you think?

Though there are many reasons for choosing this frame over the very worthy competitors, the primary reasons I went with the Velo Routier probably boiled down to these:
  • Jan Heine's review of the V1 in Bicycle Quarterly was quite favorable, essentially implying that the Velo Routier is the reincarnation of the famous Kogswell Porteur/Randonneur he helped design back in the 2000s. If it's good enough for Jan, I'm hoping it's good enough for my first low-trail bike.
  • I love the way center-pull brakes look and I really want to try them with dedicated brazed on bosses. I'm given to understand that direct mounted center pulls offer some of the best modulation in the business. I'm eager to test that assertion. 
  • The Velo Routier is sold as a more or less complete bike* (see caveat below) while the Grand Randonneur (my second choice) and Polyvalent are sold only as framesets. I tinker a bit with bikes, see to it that the brakes work and futz with the gears to keep them from making too much noise, but the idea of figuring out which headset, bottom bracket and derailleurs fit on the bike is a bit daunting to me. I may not find the package ideal, but this way somebody has at least chosen a "starter" set of components on which I can build. And who knows, maybe the Toussaint guys have put together a package that will suit my needs perfectly. 
  • Braze-ons, baby! Look at that seatstay bridge. And what a lovely brake cable stop. Pump pegs? Fuhgeddaboudit. Look, there are certainly more beautiful examples of the welding arts at the NAHBS, but on a production frame? I haven't see anything better. 
*At present the company isn't offering complete, assembled bikes. Presumably they don't have the labour to assemble them. But they are selling un-assembled bikes, providing all the necessary components in a do-it-yourself kit. They ship everything but pedals and a saddle. You do the assembly.

Velo Routier V2 DIY Build Kit
My intention is to build the bike as designed and see what works and what doesn't. If it's perfect, I'll go with it as-is. If not, I'll modify it until it suits me. I will probably start out with the Brooks Cambium C17 saddle and see if that works. I currently have it installed on the Fuji, which has primarily been used for fairly short rides. I haven't yet tried it as a long distance saddle. So we'll see how I like it. If that doesn't work out, I'll probably try the Specialized Avatar from the now defunct Madone or my trusty old Selle San Marco Era Pro. I'll go with "modern" pedals, moving my Speedplay Frogs from the carbon fiber super bike. Once I've had time to evaluate the standard build, I'll decide if I have to make changes. Having said that, here is a listing of stuff I may want to change.

What, me worry?

I've placed the order so I must feel confident that this is the bike for me, right? Oh that consumerism were so simple. It's an inexpensive mail order bike of a design that is new to me, with components I
have never laid eyes on. So no, I'm not entirely sure it's going to live up to expectations. Which is the exact reason I'm buying an entry-level bike, rather than having one custom tailored to my specifications. I can afford to have this one not work out and chalk it up to experience. I've done my homework as best I can and hopefully all will be well, but here are some of my concerns and lingering doubts.

Reviews of the Dia Compe 750 brakes have been mixed, with Jan Heine particularly referring to them in his Bicycle Quarterly "first ride" review as "mushy". I have found the same issue with the Gran Compe 610s I have on the Fuji, though they are mounted to the fork with a back plate and rear bolt rather than directly to the fork bosses. Should Jan's assessment prove true, I have a set of 1974 Mafac "Racers" I can scavenge from an old Urago a buddy passed down to me. Based on what I've read on the forums they should fit and I think they're pretty close to the vaunted Mafac "Raid" brakes that Jan loves so much.

The drive train is a MicroSHIFT 10 speed friction set-up, with bar-end shifters powering a lowish (46/30) double up front and a super wide (11/36!) chainring in the rear. I'm really hoping it works out because I increasingly need that wide range for climbing. Remember, I'm transitioning from typical Shimano Ultegra 50/34, 11/28 brifters, so the change could be significant. I've got Suntour down-tube shifters on the Fuji, and it's mostly fine once I get used to it; I'm looking forward to trying the bar-ends where shifting should theoretically involve a bit less awkward reaching.

Courtesy Lovely Bicycle
My biggest worry about bar-end shifters is about the swoopy cable routing and the front-mounted bag. Builds I've seen online have looked extremely kludgy and inelegant. If I can't make that work to my satisfaction I may go to mounting shifters on the down-tube which makes everything a lot simpler. Or I may even be dorky enough to try a stem-mounted solution, which frankly makes a ton of sense to me, despite being almost unheard of since the bike boom. We'll have to see.

Speaking of front mounted bags, the Velo Routier has a bit of an issue with front racks. The first version of the frame came with a custom-designed rack that was an obvious last-minute kluge (Evan admitted as much in the BQ review). To get around the brazed on center-pull brake arms, the rack struts rose steeply from their connections on the fork crowns. This leaves the rack's platform hovering way too high over the fender, which both looks stupid and probably compromises performance by having the weight of the handlebar bag higher than necessary. I'll do a little measuring when the bike gets here and see if I can make a Velo Orange rack work with the brakes. Just eye-balling it, I'm guessing it's possible and I'm not the first to try, so...

VO Randonneur Front Rack
Some folks on the forums (fora! okay, I'll stop doing this now) have noted that the Kalloy KL-100 Alloy quill stem and handlebars are a bit flexy, so I'll have to see how that works out. I can bring over the Nitto stem from the Fuji and there's a really neat looking Pivo stem on the aforementioned Urago that might work. But I may just have to replace the handlebars with a new set, possibly some Nitto B132 Randonneurs or the equivalent from Velo Orange. I'll have to see once they get here.

The low gearing in the front causes some anxiety too, but most of the 650b's are set up with the 46 tooth chain ring, so maybe it's the right thing. I'm coming from 52/42/30 and 50/34 chainrings, so the thought of losing four or more teeth on the top end causes me just a bit of pause. But I'm open to the possibility that this will be a positive transition to a slightly less stressful way of riding, less concerned with top performance and more aligned with comfort and distance. I just hope the stuff isn't junk. I rode some MicroSHIFT brifters on a vintage aluminum Pinarello Galileo on a trip to Italy a few years ago and they worked just fine. So, that gives me some slight comfort. Fingers crossed.

The VR is currently winging its way across the North American continent!
Join us for the next episode of MondoBlahBlah, when the Velo Routier arrives!!!

Supple-mentary Readin'
In the mean time, see what others have been saying about the Velo Routier.

https://www.nationalobserver.com/2016/04/18/cycles-toussaint-fast-comfortable-and-bit-bling
https://rideyourjourney.com/2015/02/23/velo-routier-frame-v-2/
http://www.brooklynrandonneur.com/2015/08/
http://www.brooklynrandonneur.com/2016/03/cycles-toussaint-velo-routier-v2-ride.html
https://stonehog.com/2014/03/03/initial-velo-routier-notes/
https://stonehog.com/2016/01/06/trail-riding/
https://stonehog.com/2015/12/23/new-toussaints/
http://www.cycleexif.com/cycles-toussaint