Showing posts sorted by relevance for query toussaint. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query toussaint. Sort by date Show all posts

Sunday, April 29, 2018

All together now

Previously on MondoBlahBlah... or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.

When last we met, I had assembled a lot of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier 2.0. I had help  installing the headset and bottom bracket from Big Mig at the local Bicycle Place. Of course I just jammed the seat post in and hung a saddle on it. I got the cassette and crank set on the frame along with the derailleurs. I got the stem and handlebar worked out. I got the front rack, fenders and brakes all attached with reasonably satisfactory results. Nothing left to do but attend to the final details of connecting all the moving parts and actually making the thing work.

Ta da!
So at last the build is more or less complete and the bike is rideable. I haven't yet had the chance to ride it, and I still have some tinkering to do to get the brakes and front derailleur fine-tuned, but the build is essentially complete. What follows are some observations about the bits and pieces of Cycles Toussaint's DIY build kit.

Shifters

Alright, let's hear it for the good guys. After I pointed out to my buddy Angus that bar-top "thumb" shifters just don't belong on a road bike, he sent me a completely new set of MicroSHIFT bar-end shifters. And really nice shifters they seem to be, right down to the red anodized accents that reinforce the red in the Cycles Toussaint logo. Thanks very much to Cycles Toussaint. And I note that one of my readers, phillip Cowan noted in the comments that CT sent him both styles with his order. I'm totally going to take credit for that.    

Brake Levers

I tried using the supplied Dia Compe brake levers, but I couldn't get them to work right. After futzing with them for a while I gave up and put on a pair of Origin8 Pro Force aero levers I bought a couple of years ago with the Fuji in mind. They went on fine, though there's no barrel adjuster; I tried and tried, but I couldn't figure out how to gracefully insert an "in-line" adjuster in the set-up, so the rear brake has no adjuster, which will probably drive me crazy eventually.

I'm also not too happy about the way the "Pro Force" levers look. They're pretty clearly modern Shimano knock-offs and look a bit chunky on the bike. I suspect I'll leave them for a while as I get used to the bike and swap them out for something more aesthetically pleasing (like the Origin8 Classique Sport model) later on.

See the little thingy on top of the lever?
Barrel Adjuster - the kit didn't come with them.
After having installed the Origin8 levers, I figured out what was wrong with the stock Dia Compe levers. They were missing brake lever ferrules which act as a "stop" for the cable housing as it comes out of the lever, producing the tension the cable needs to pull against the brakes. Without them, the brake levers just don't work. Looking at every picture I can find on the internet, I see that every image of the "stock" Velo Routier features nifty looking barrel adjusters where the cable exits the lever housing - I think they were these: https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-parts/products/dia-compe-cable-adjuster-for-gc202-and-dc204-levers. But no such thing came with the DIY kit, rendering the brakes useless or forcing me to seek out these exotic little parts.

This is just one of the "small parts" irritations with the DIY kit. Cycles Toussaint eventually provided me a handful of shifter cable ferrules and some cable end crimps, but they didn't come with the package - I had to ask for them when I whined about the shifters. I know, niggling details, but the site does say, "We package and ship a complete frame set and build kit to your home (only exclusion is seat and pedals.)" There seems to be some room for interpretation of the word "complete".

Chain

I only mention the chain because Cycles Toussaint sent three, count 'em, three of them. At an MSRP of $36 each, I consider that quite generous. It may be a while before I need a new one. And without prompting, Angus threw in a "master link" when he sent the replacement shifters. Very thoughtful, as it makes it a whole lot easier to install the chain.

Front Derailleur / Crankset

The front derailleur went on without a hitch, but the tolerances were super tight. When the chain gets clear of the derailleur, the crank arm rubs it on each revolution. When I back the derailleur off so the crank arm doesn't rub, but chain grinds against the inside of the derailleur. And every so often the chain gets thrown off the big ring to the outside. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with the parts. I think I just have to do more fiddling with them to get them set up just right.

Rear Derailleur / Cassette

Matching the shifters and front derailleur, the bike comes with a MicroSHIFT rear derailleur and cassette. On the surface it seems like a nicely integrated 2 x 10 drive train with a nice wide gear range. And mostly that's correct. But the rear derailleur (see photo below) doesn't match the big cog cassette (36 teeth). Basically, it just doesn't shift to the lowest gear. Not a huge deal. A 30T x 34T low gear is still plenty low. And 9 speeds in the rear s more than anyone should need. But still - tempt me with a 10 speed / 36T and then give me a 9 speed / 34T, and I'm bound to feel a little cheated. Again. No biggie. Just seems a bit "close, but no cigar."

Various and Sundry

Pump Pegs
A useless appendage - pump peg
forever to remain empty. 
So despite all the really positive aspects of this bike, not the least of which is that it exists at all, there is a really glaring issue I have with it, and that concerns what might be among the most inconsequential details; the pump pegs. One of the truly coolest, quirkiest details on the Velo Routier's frame, the thing that most explicitly pays homage to the constructeurs whose work inspired its design is the dedicated pegs for a frame pump on the left seat stay. Not that single bump on the head tube that some "retro" bikes have, but serious, elegant top and bottom pegs for a classic "pencil" pump. When I saw them I just flipped out - that's a sign of just how seriously these guys at Cycles Toussaint are taking the design of this bike, I thought. What a shame then when I find that they will never fulfill their purpose because there's no such thing as a pump that fits the pegs.

It's not that there are no pumps designed to fit such pegs. In fact Zefal makes a really attractive one, the Classic Lapize. But it doesn't fit. It measures 375 mm or 14.8 inches. The distance between the pegs is 14 5/16 inches or about 363.54 mm. I could conceivably squeeze in a small HPX pump, but it looks like stupid and the connection points just aren't right. It's designed to fit in the spaces of the frame, not between pump pegs. So I'll probably carry a mini-pump in the handlebar bag or use a full size frame pump under the top tube and ride with an empty space between the pump pegs, a forever aspirational void, an unfulfilled longing for elegance and purpose. Pity.

Well, okay, enough with the build. The real question is, how does this low trail 650b bike ride? Stay tuned faithful reader, for my initial review in the next post.

Friday, February 23, 2018

And the winner is...

The Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V2!!

or...

Read the entire story of the research, acquisition and assembly of my new Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier v2.


Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V2 with braze-ons
After a somewhat painstaking consideration of the three most popular entry-level low trail 650b "randonneur" style bikes, I ultimately decided to purchase the second edition of the Velo Routier from Calgary's boutique Cycles Toussaint. The order has been placed, a couple of emails have been exchanged with Angus Cowan (one of the two partners running the company), and the bike is on its way. Now I just watch the CanPar/FedEx notifications and impatiently await the arrival.

Everything sounds better when you say it in French. Velo Routier. Ooo, la, la. It just rolls off the tongue, smooth and elegant. It basically translates as "road bike". Cycle Toussaint Velo Routier sounds so much better than All Saints Road Bike, don't you think?

Though there are many reasons for choosing this frame over the very worthy competitors, the primary reasons I went with the Velo Routier probably boiled down to these:
  • Jan Heine's review of the V1 in Bicycle Quarterly was quite favorable, essentially implying that the Velo Routier is the reincarnation of the famous Kogswell Porteur/Randonneur he helped design back in the 2000s. If it's good enough for Jan, I'm hoping it's good enough for my first low-trail bike.
  • I love the way center-pull brakes look and I really want to try them with dedicated brazed on bosses. I'm given to understand that direct mounted center pulls offer some of the best modulation in the business. I'm eager to test that assertion. 
  • The Velo Routier is sold as a more or less complete bike* (see caveat below) while the Grand Randonneur (my second choice) and Polyvalent are sold only as framesets. I tinker a bit with bikes, see to it that the brakes work and futz with the gears to keep them from making too much noise, but the idea of figuring out which headset, bottom bracket and derailleurs fit on the bike is a bit daunting to me. I may not find the package ideal, but this way somebody has at least chosen a "starter" set of components on which I can build. And who knows, maybe the Toussaint guys have put together a package that will suit my needs perfectly. 
  • Braze-ons, baby! Look at that seatstay bridge. And what a lovely brake cable stop. Pump pegs? Fuhgeddaboudit. Look, there are certainly more beautiful examples of the welding arts at the NAHBS, but on a production frame? I haven't see anything better. 
*At present the company isn't offering complete, assembled bikes. Presumably they don't have the labour to assemble them. But they are selling un-assembled bikes, providing all the necessary components in a do-it-yourself kit. They ship everything but pedals and a saddle. You do the assembly.

Velo Routier V2 DIY Build Kit
My intention is to build the bike as designed and see what works and what doesn't. If it's perfect, I'll go with it as-is. If not, I'll modify it until it suits me. I will probably start out with the Brooks Cambium C17 saddle and see if that works. I currently have it installed on the Fuji, which has primarily been used for fairly short rides. I haven't yet tried it as a long distance saddle. So we'll see how I like it. If that doesn't work out, I'll probably try the Specialized Avatar from the now defunct Madone or my trusty old Selle San Marco Era Pro. I'll go with "modern" pedals, moving my Speedplay Frogs from the carbon fiber super bike. Once I've had time to evaluate the standard build, I'll decide if I have to make changes. Having said that, here is a listing of stuff I may want to change.

What, me worry?

I've placed the order so I must feel confident that this is the bike for me, right? Oh that consumerism were so simple. It's an inexpensive mail order bike of a design that is new to me, with components I
have never laid eyes on. So no, I'm not entirely sure it's going to live up to expectations. Which is the exact reason I'm buying an entry-level bike, rather than having one custom tailored to my specifications. I can afford to have this one not work out and chalk it up to experience. I've done my homework as best I can and hopefully all will be well, but here are some of my concerns and lingering doubts.

Reviews of the Dia Compe 750 brakes have been mixed, with Jan Heine particularly referring to them in his Bicycle Quarterly "first ride" review as "mushy". I have found the same issue with the Gran Compe 610s I have on the Fuji, though they are mounted to the fork with a back plate and rear bolt rather than directly to the fork bosses. Should Jan's assessment prove true, I have a set of 1974 Mafac "Racers" I can scavenge from an old Urago a buddy passed down to me. Based on what I've read on the forums they should fit and I think they're pretty close to the vaunted Mafac "Raid" brakes that Jan loves so much.

The drive train is a MicroSHIFT 10 speed friction set-up, with bar-end shifters powering a lowish (46/30) double up front and a super wide (11/36!) chainring in the rear. I'm really hoping it works out because I increasingly need that wide range for climbing. Remember, I'm transitioning from typical Shimano Ultegra 50/34, 11/28 brifters, so the change could be significant. I've got Suntour down-tube shifters on the Fuji, and it's mostly fine once I get used to it; I'm looking forward to trying the bar-ends where shifting should theoretically involve a bit less awkward reaching.

Courtesy Lovely Bicycle
My biggest worry about bar-end shifters is about the swoopy cable routing and the front-mounted bag. Builds I've seen online have looked extremely kludgy and inelegant. If I can't make that work to my satisfaction I may go to mounting shifters on the down-tube which makes everything a lot simpler. Or I may even be dorky enough to try a stem-mounted solution, which frankly makes a ton of sense to me, despite being almost unheard of since the bike boom. We'll have to see.

Speaking of front mounted bags, the Velo Routier has a bit of an issue with front racks. The first version of the frame came with a custom-designed rack that was an obvious last-minute kluge (Evan admitted as much in the BQ review). To get around the brazed on center-pull brake arms, the rack struts rose steeply from their connections on the fork crowns. This leaves the rack's platform hovering way too high over the fender, which both looks stupid and probably compromises performance by having the weight of the handlebar bag higher than necessary. I'll do a little measuring when the bike gets here and see if I can make a Velo Orange rack work with the brakes. Just eye-balling it, I'm guessing it's possible and I'm not the first to try, so...

VO Randonneur Front Rack
Some folks on the forums (fora! okay, I'll stop doing this now) have noted that the Kalloy KL-100 Alloy quill stem and handlebars are a bit flexy, so I'll have to see how that works out. I can bring over the Nitto stem from the Fuji and there's a really neat looking Pivo stem on the aforementioned Urago that might work. But I may just have to replace the handlebars with a new set, possibly some Nitto B132 Randonneurs or the equivalent from Velo Orange. I'll have to see once they get here.

The low gearing in the front causes some anxiety too, but most of the 650b's are set up with the 46 tooth chain ring, so maybe it's the right thing. I'm coming from 52/42/30 and 50/34 chainrings, so the thought of losing four or more teeth on the top end causes me just a bit of pause. But I'm open to the possibility that this will be a positive transition to a slightly less stressful way of riding, less concerned with top performance and more aligned with comfort and distance. I just hope the stuff isn't junk. I rode some MicroSHIFT brifters on a vintage aluminum Pinarello Galileo on a trip to Italy a few years ago and they worked just fine. So, that gives me some slight comfort. Fingers crossed.

The VR is currently winging its way across the North American continent!
Join us for the next episode of MondoBlahBlah, when the Velo Routier arrives!!!

Supple-mentary Readin'
In the mean time, see what others have been saying about the Velo Routier.

https://www.nationalobserver.com/2016/04/18/cycles-toussaint-fast-comfortable-and-bit-bling
https://rideyourjourney.com/2015/02/23/velo-routier-frame-v-2/
http://www.brooklynrandonneur.com/2015/08/
http://www.brooklynrandonneur.com/2016/03/cycles-toussaint-velo-routier-v2-ride.html
https://stonehog.com/2014/03/03/initial-velo-routier-notes/
https://stonehog.com/2016/01/06/trail-riding/
https://stonehog.com/2015/12/23/new-toussaints/
http://www.cycleexif.com/cycles-toussaint

Friday, July 2, 2021

The Lighten-ing: Wheels

For those of you who don't know, a few years ago I smashed up a midlife-crisis-carbon-fiber-super-bike and replaced it with a low trail do-it-yourself-built steel rando bike from Cycles Toussaint of Alberta, Calgary. Read all about it here: https://mondoblahblah.blogspot.com/search/label/VR2%20Build

I've swapped some cockpit parts over the years, but in general, the bike looks like this:

Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier V.2, 51cm

With the exception of the tires, handlebars, stem pedals and bottle cages, all parts came with the Cycles Toussaint Velo Routier DIY package. Though I could never quite get the front derailleur adjusted perfectly, I've been extremely happy with the bike, and find I like it more the longer I own it.

People who ride bikes like this, absolutely should not be weight weenies. The frame is steel, the rims are metal, the tires are wide. This bike is designed and built to keep the rider comfortable over long distances, not to race. So it's heavy compared to the bike it replaced. Ready to ride it weighs just about 32.6 pounds as I originally set it up. 

For a while I have been thinking of getting a second set of wheels. Nothing particularly wrong with the original set, and the kid at the local bike shop even complemented me on them when I took them in to get trued (I can do a basic job, but I like to periodically take them in to a professional get the dish and spoke tension right). My first inclination was to order a new set from Cycles Toussaint, as they have a wheelset for sale for the insanely low price of $169. The set, like most of their components, runs a tad heavy at nearly 1,900 grams, plus another 100g or so for quick releases. 

I had heard Russ Roca from PathLessPedaled mention he thought "good" wheels should generally not exceed around 1,500 grams, so I thought I'd look around to see what my options were. It doesn't take long to discover there aren't a lot of good options for 650b alloy "box" style rims on the market. In fact, aside from those available through Cycles Toussaint, only Pacenti seems to offer pre-built wheels that fit the bill. Velo Orange used to offer a nice set, but I haven't seen them actually in stock for a number of years and they seem to have been captured by the disk brake tractor beam. Of course I probably should (and thought I might) break down and get a set built at the shop, but that would require more effort than just plunking down my credit card, dammit!

After reading Jan Heine's description of the wheels he built for the bike he rode during the 2019 Paris-Brest-Paris ride, I decided the Pacenti Brevet 650b was close enough and somehow ordered during a brief window of availability during the Covid-19 pandemic. Looking at their site, it looks like there's now a backlog of at least 10 weeks, as is the case with a lot of products these days.

Pacenti Brevet 650b wheels

Built just for me by someone named Ryan from Devon, UK!

Ryan from Devon built my wheels with their own two hands.

Fortunately, before the end of the world, I acquired a back-up set of tubes and Loup Loup Pass 650b x 38mm extra light tires from what was then still Compass Bicycles, now René Herse.

Compass Cycles Loup Loup Pass tires and Schwalbe SV21A tubes

I've only used two models of tires on this bike in the three or so years since I bought it - the white Pacenti Pari-Moto tires that came with the Cycles Toussaint DIY package, and the Compass Loup Loup Pass extra lights. Both are made by Panaracer in Japan, in what looks like nearly identical molds. Both are absolutely outstanding quality tires, the primary difference being lifespan - the Pari-Moto tires are what Jan Heine has described as "event" tires, and for me at least, were very short lived. But they performed every bit as well as the Loup Loups at about half the cost, so you decide. If you like the white, buy two sets and just swap them out twice as often.  

A note on tubes: The René Herse site recommends Schwalbe SV14A tubes for the 38mm tires. When I originally installed the Loup Loups, I did so with those tubes, and both of them blew out. I allow that there may have been a problem with my rim tape or something (though the tubes blew out on both front and rear rims), but having blown $34 to smithereens, I elected to get some SV21A tubes and haven't had a problem with them. 

Technically the SV14As are listed on the Schwalbe tube-finder as 26 inch tubes which Jan has pointed out are plenty big enough for 650b rims (there's only about 3% difference in circumference, which should be fine). The SV21A tubes, specifically rated for 650b rims are a touch heavier (just under 3 ounces). I'm willing to suffer the extra 80 grams for just a touch more confidence.

Schwalbe SV14A inner tube specifications

Schwalbe SV21A inner tube specifications

https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes/finder

I was originally going to install a new MicroShift 10-speed cassette on the new wheels, but I figured while I was updating the wheels I might as well "upgrade" the cassette as well, at the risk of introducing yet another variable to complicate matters. So I installed a SRAM PG-1070, 11-36 cassette. Not sure it's superior in any way to the much less expensive Microshift alternative, but it saved about 2 ounces. I used one of the "extra" KMC 10-speed chains included with the DIY package. 

SRAM PG-100 Cassette

So I have the new Brevet wheels on the bike with new Loup Loup tires, Schwalb SV21A tubes, SRAM cassette and a KMC chain. Just in case you don't know, here's a Rivendell video demonstrating the process of swapping out the cassette and chain:

https://vimeo.com/505415805

So, does all this extra effort (and money - probably about $350 more for the "upgraded" wheels and cassette) yield any benefit? The simple answer: hell, yes. I can't say it's completely revolutionized the bike's performance - it's still piloted by a middle-age slacker after all - but there is a definitely a notable improvement to the ride quality. Spinning up to speed seems quicker, as does sprocket engagement after coasting. I'm not sure it's actually faster, but it feels faster and just somehow "smoother". 

I suspect a large portion of the improved ride quality has to do with the quality of the freehub, which is undoubtedly of better quality than the DIY hub. But weight might also play a role, particularly in the front which, despite having four (count 'em, 4!) fewer spokes, feels more "definite". I will test my freehub theory when I next swap out wheels. When ordering the Brevets I picked up a Pacenti freehub to get to the $500 free shipping limit. I'll put that on the stock Cycles Toussaint wheels with the MicroShift cassette and see how it compares. Of course that probably won't be for another year, so...

The conclusion is that I'm super happy I went this way. Nothing particularly wrong with the stock build; it is what it was supposed to be: entry-level. But the stock wheels really do a disservice to the bike. This one upgrade reveals the true quality of the frame with its compliant steel and uncommon geometry. When supported by higher quality components, the Velo Routier absolutely shines. I'm happier with the bike now than when I bought it.

Pacenti Cycles Brevet 650b wheels for rim brakes

Sunday, September 8, 2024

Bike Check: 2022 Crust Cantilever Lightning Bolt

As you may know, I bought a Crust Lightning Bolt with cantilever brakes in the winter of 2022. The much-vaunted CantiBolt! It took me a year or so to assemble all the parts, prep the frame and ultimately build up the bike. You can read about it here, should you be so inclined. Now, after a year and a couple of thousand miles riding it, I thought I'd do a retrospective review.

Crust Canti-Bolt

Below, for reference, is the current build list. It's essentially the same as the original build, though some details have changed. Stepping out the door for yesterday's ride, the bike weighed 31.2 pounds, including two full 21 oz. Camelbak Ice water bottles, phone, wallet, snacks, etc. I've even got a modest cable lock in the bag. That's summer time ready-to-ride weight. Winter would weigh more because more clothes, but I tend to ride my Cycles Toussaint in the winter, since it's fendered and has the larger Acorn Boxy Rando bag affixed with a decaleur. 

Build List

The drivetrain definitely seemed like a risky "mullet" proposition, mixing the Velo Orange sub-compact crankset (road) with the MicroSHIFT ultra-low-geared rear derailleur (MTB). I had to switch from the elegant Silver bar-end shifters I was planning to use for the MicroSHIFT MTB barcons, which have more cable pull. I am happy to report that the system works swimmingly. With friction shifting, all things are possible. I can't imagine a better shifting, more versatile system. With a low gear of 30t (front) x 42t (rear), the Cantibolt is a climbing beast. Though I've fantasized about swapping to the Velo Orange "Drillium" crankset, featuring a 48t x 34t, I find that I'm not so limited by the 46 tooth top gear that I really need it. I think I'd rather have the low 30 tooth gear - I'm not getting any younger.

Mullet drive train to conquer any climb

Brakes, handlebars, shifters, etc., haven't changed since I built up the bike, but I've added the front bag and the frame pump.The bag is a cheap(ish) Korean Zimbale brand bag I bought from Amazon. Though I liked the design with its low profile, I disliked its sticky zipper and poorly laid out leather/Velcro rack attachment points. I actually returned it and got my money back... twice. But it seems to be one of those notorious products the company doesn't want back. Or they went out of business right in the middle of my transaction. Not sure. I returned it twice and it came back to me both times. Ultimately I figured it was meant for me. And it looks pretty good on the bike, don't you think?

Zimbale front rack bag.

I modified the attachment straps so they worked with my rack, and gave the zipper a good lubing. It's still not my favorite bag, but it does the job, so I'll keep it on the bike until something better comes along, or I finally get around to installing the decaleur I have sitting in the parts bin, so I can use my Acorn bag. Combined with the now discontinued Brooks Isle of Wight saddle bag, in which I keep extra tubes, tools, etc., I can carry a lot of stuff without having a gigantic bag. I've got plenty of room for everything I need.

Selle Italia "Man" saddle, Brooks saddle bag, Silca pump and Avid Shorty brakes.

COMPARE & CONTRAST

It is interesting to note the differences between riding a 700c x 25mm racing bike, and a traditional steel 650b x 42mm rando rig, but it's a bit of a false equivalency. The two styles are optimized for different objectives; pure speed for the racing bike; comfort, versatility and efficiency for the randonneuse. In a way, they represent a natural progression for many a seasoned rider as we move from our thrill-seeking youth to a more mature, sustainable riding style as we age. At least that's how it has been for me. I'm 61 years old - my 53/39 years are behind me.

The only fair comparison I can make is between the Crust CantiBolt and the Vélo Routier, as they are both low trail, 650B bikes made from lightweight, TIG-welded steel and ride on similarly wide tires (42mm for the Lightning Bolt and 38mm for the VR). But the comparison kind of ends there, because to be a fair comparison, all the components on the two bikes should be matched, and they're not.

But I'm not gonna let that stop me!

The Vélo Routier was my first "rando" frame and the first bike I assembled more or less by myself. I bought it as a DIY kit, with all the parts chosen by Cycles Toussaint, though I ended up using a stem and handlebar combination from the parts bin which shortened the reach a bit. Still, the resultant stack and reach of the two bikes are very close. The Routier's total price came to about $1,350 (US) plus shipping, or just a bit more than the Crust's frameset alone. So, let's say it was the epitome of an "entry level" spec. A good way to get started, but I'd never do it that way today. Knowing what I now know, I'd choose individual parts, though of course I'd spend a heckuva lot more money to do so.

Cycles Toussaint Vélo Routier

Now that the Crust is completely dialed in, and having spent a bit of time with it, I can safely say that it is without a doubt the best bike I've ever owned, and probably the best bike I've ever ridden. That list includes a 2002 Trek 2000, an aluminum "racing style" bike with 105 components, a 2011 Trek Madone (Ultegra components), an '86 Fuji Allegro seven-speed, and a Cycles Toussaint Vélo Routier version 2. I also spent a week riding across Italy on a Van Nicholas titanium touring bike once upon a time. But the main comparison is to my other rando bike, the Vélo Routier, on which I have around 10,000 miles at this point.

Everything about the Lightning Bolt seems marginally, and in some ways vastly better than any of these bikes. All the lessons learned from building the Vélo Routier were applied to the build of the Crust, and better parts were individually chosen rather than bought as an entry-level set. I can't help but think the better components account for a sizeable share of the different qualities of the two bikes. But can a better headset or bottom bracket really make that much difference? Or is the Lightning Bolt better than the Vélo Routier because of better design, including better geometry, steel, etc. I'm not about to spend the money to match the bikes' components, but I'll engage in a bit speculation...

REAL STEEL

I'll talk about differences in component quality and geometry in a minute, but first things first. Though they look pretty similar in most respects, the primary difference between the construction of the two bikes is the steel. I'm no metallurgist, but here's what I know (which is to say, have found on the internet). The Vélo Routier is made from oversize (OS) .8/.5/.8 4130 chromoly. That's thin-walled by most standards, as I understand it, similar to Reynolds 531C. The Lightning Bolt is made from standard diameter .7/.4/.7 heat-treated chromoly steel. In bicycle terms that's "extra-thin-walled, traditional-diameter tubing. More or less the same spec as the René Herse Kaisei Superlight tubeset or Reynolds 753. The Lightning Bolt's lore has it that Matt Whitehead, Crust's founder, had to sign a waver indemnifying the manufacturer (MaxWay?) from liability for owners doing inappropriate things with this bike. Hence the rider weight limit of 100kg / 220 lbs and the warnings not to "go all Evel Knievel thinking you're Missy Giove bombing this thing down some single track. It's not designed for that." 

So, the Crust's tubes are thinner in both diameter and wall thickness than those of the Cycles Toussaint. This doesn't seem to impact the final "ride-ready" bikes' weight much (they end up being within about 16 ounces of each other). But it may contribute significantly to differences in the bikes' "feel". I think. Again, that's based more on what I've read, mostly in Bicycle Quarterly, than anything I can prove. 

Is it simply thinner steel that makes the Lightning Bolt feel so much better than my other bikes? Not exactly. The steel may be a large part of the reason the bike is more comfortable than the Vélo Routier, but there are obviously other factors at play. Here's a quick list of the general impressions of the two bikes' handling with my guesses as to possible causes.

STEERING

The Vélo Routier always felt a bit unsettled. It requires constant attention from the pilot, lest it wanders off course. The Lightning Bolt, on the other hand, is much steadier, requiring only light steering inputs, and holds its line quite well. Not quite the "on rails" feeling of my higher trail racing bikes, but definitely striking that elusive balance between responsive and predictable. In short, the Crust's handling is confidence-inspiring, while the Vélo Routier's is a bit twitchy. But is that because of the relatively minor geometric differences, the steel used for the fork, or is it to do with component choices? The stem in the VR's DIY kit was at least 20mm longer than the 70mm Nitto I actually used. The handlebar also had a longer reach, and was wider. The DIY kit came with a needle bearing headset, usually spec'd to dampen low trail bikes' tendency to shimmy at speed. Were those choices made by Cycles Toussaint to compensate for the frameset's inherently skittish tendencies?

Note that the chart below comparing the two bikes displays an anomaly. Cycles Toussaint claims the Vélo Routier's trail as 30mm. BikeInsights.com lists it as a "calculated" 18.8mm. Big difference. I don't know how to sort out the discrepancy, but if it is indeed 18mm, well there you go - that's just too low, and waaaayyy lower than the Crust's 40mm. Could be it. Even if we give the designers the benefit of the doubt, there's a 10mm difference between the two. The Routier's 30mm is considered very low, and the Crust's 40.2mm fits in the high side of the conventional definition of "low" trail.

Bikeinsights.com comparison of the two bikes
Is the difference in trail the reason for the two bikes substantial disparity in steering? Everything else, i.e., shorter wheelbase, shorter chainstay, shorter stem, higher bottom bracket, would argue that the Lightning Bolt should be the twitchier of the two, but that's not the case. So, I'll assume the difference in trail is the primary element that accounts for the disparate character of the bikes' handling. One day I'll swap out the NECO headset on the Vélo Routier and see if that makes a difference. I also plan to move the Routier's rear wheel to the absolute longest chainstay length allowed by the semi-horizontal dropout. Maybe that'll help.

Also worth reiterating is that the bikes have different tire sizes. Not sure how much impact this has on steering, but as tire size affects trail, it has to be considered a factor. The Vélo Routier runs on ultralight 38mm Compass/Re Loup-Loup Pass tires and the Lightning Bolt sports 42mm Pacenti Pari-motos.

ACCELERATION

The Crust wins this category hands-down. Input at the pedals sends the bike forward with very little resistance, where the Vélo Routier takes a few pedal revolutions to wind up. The chainring gearing is the same (46/30), so that's not it. The cassettes have different low gears, but I'm rarely starting from the bottom, so I doubt that's it. Is it the cheap bottom bracket on the VR? I did use a high quality IRD BB when spec'ing the Crust, so... Heavier wheels from the Routier's DIY package? Yes, but I've used the same set of wheels on both bikes and there is still a very noticeable difference in the bikes' responsiveness. Is the springiness of the thinner steel responsible for the magical transfer of energy from potential to kinetic? Whatever the reason, the Crust just feels lighter, spins up faster, and gets closer to what Jan Heine might describe as planing.

BRAKING TOO (cantilever boogaloo)

Direct-mount center-pull brakes are the best rim brakes ever made. Right? And cantilever brakes are a horrible, squealing anachronism that should immediately be replaced with V-brakes. Right? Well, the Avid Shorty Ultimate canti's I put on the Crust are just magnificent. These cantilever brakes work every bit as well as any rim brakes I've used. They're light, they're easy to mount and fine tune, they use "regular" road brake pads, and they're black!

Avid Shorty Ultimate cantilever brakes
The direct mounted center-pull Dia Compe 750 brakes that came with the Cycles Toussaint work fine, but not as well as the Shortys. I should probably figure out how to install the vintage Mafac Racer brakes I have in the parts bin on the VR, but I'm lazy, so I live with good enough.

All of which is to say, the cantilever brakes on the Crust are every bit as good as or better than the center-pulls on the VR, as well as the Ultegras and 105 dual-pivot side-pulls that came on both of my racing bikes. I'm sure many would ask, why fuck with obsolete technology when a vastly better technology exists, i.e., disc brakes? Answers: 

  • Ride quality: rim brakes allow a flexy fork which imparts a sublime ride, likely a large part of what makes this bike better than the VR. As Matt notes in the Lightning Bolt's product description, "This frame is designed to flex and feel like you're actually floating millimeters above the road on top of Dynamic clouds." Too right.
  • Mechanical simplicity and easy of maintenance: disc brakes just seem more complicated and difficult to maintain. My riding fantasies are mostly built around long rides in remote places. I want to be able to fix just about anything that goes wrong on the bike, and rim brakes are way easier to adjust. Plus, my bikes will never stop working because they spring a leak or because a battery dies.  

 "But disk brakes are better, newer, whatever..." Okay, sure, fine, whatever. As the Bike Farmer says, my rim brakes are "good enough for who it's for." Rim brakes were good enough for Fausto Coppi and Eddy Mercks; they're good enough for me. And the Avid Shorty Ultimate brakes are as good or better than I've ever owned. So there.

CONCLUSION 

So where does this leave us? Well, dammit, I've become spoiled having a bike that is so much more pleasant to ride. I love my Cycles Toussaint Vélo Routier. It is a very special bike, being the first production bike I have ever seen with bosses for direct-mounting center-pull brakes, usually available only on bespoke frames. But I find that ever since the Crust Lightning Bolt became rideable, that's the bike I grab when headed out the door. These days I only go to the VR when there's a problem with the Crust, or when I need the fenders. But while riding it, I now find myself pining for the ride quality of the Lightning Bolt. Kinda sucks. Like trying fine wine or good craft beer. Once you know, you can't go back.

Reflective triangle? Check!














Now I find myself asking if I'll ever really want to ride a bike that isn't the Lightning Bolt. I'll always hang onto my 90's Specialized Crossroads Cruz, for around town and as a back-country hunting bike. But unless the Crust is down for maintenance, I can't see riding the Cycles Toussaint, the 00's Trek 2000 or the Fuji much anymore. I'm inclined to let those bikes go, to clear space and maybe pass them along to someone who would use and value them. 

And now that Crust is having a very unusual sale on the remaining CantiBolts in their inventory (under 1,000 freedom tickets for the best frameset I've ever ridden?!), I'm struck by the terror that once the current crop is sold, there will never be such a magnificent production bike available. While that would constitute a travesty to me, I'm pretty sure the rest of the world would hardly notice, and Crust would get along just fine selling Bomboras and Evasions.

Crap. It's altogether possible there will be another Lightning Bolt in my stable before too long. This time in Light Sea Green with cartoony doodle graphics and yet another silly typeface. Ugh...